Weave a Thousand Flavors

Authentic Mexican Pollo Pibil ~ Chicken with Achiote paste in Banana Leaves from Yucatan, Mexico

Pollo Pibil, is a very special age-old dish hailing out of Quintana Roo, in Mexico’s Yucutan region.

What distiguishes this dish from your average chicken dish is the pibil cooking technique.

Meats are marinated, wrapped in banana leaves and placed in pibs;  roasting pits buried into the earth and layered with stones and pieces of wood. This wonderful method of cooking the meat in the earth, gives this dish it's classic rustic, earthy flavor while the banana leaves infuse the meats with a lovely freshness, keeping the meat moist, juicy and tender.

Now perched here in my urban kitchen, it's not likely I'm going to be heading to the backyard with a shovel to dig a pit, it's time to take what's traditional and work it to fit my itsy bitsy kitchen.

The challenge is this; cooking the meat in an earthen pit, allows for excess moisture to escape our from the banana leaves into the surrounding earth pit. So what one is left with is all the tenderness without the meat resting in a soupy base.

To counter this, I've got a couple of tricks up my sleeve. First, I'm going to sear the chicken over high heat to get it all brown and crispy getting those lovely browning and flavor molecules to do their thing. Helloo, Maillard reactions!

After that, I'm reducing the amount of liquid traditionally used by half so not to end up in a soupy mess.

There are a couple of things that make pollo pibil pollo pibil and not pollo whatever and that's the nutty, pungent akin to sweet pepper flavor of the achiote/annatto paste which is quite literally a brick colored brick! I merrily buy my brick from amazon.com - God bless!

The other is the overnight marination in a sea of citrus. Bitter oranges traditionally but a wowzah combination of lime, orange, grapefruit juices and vinegar does the trick very nicely. All that citrus is 'cooking' the meat, breaking down those proteins as the chicken sits and of course infuses it with a ton of flavor.

Banana leaves can be purchased frozen in any Asian market and defrosted before use. Easy peasy.

So now that you know the why, the what and the who, it's off to the kitchen without further ado!

Pollo Salsa Verde ~ Chicken in Roasted Tomatillo Green Sauce

 

This is one of my favorite chicken dishes to come out of Mexico. Some argue that the sauce is a mole (pronounced mo-lay) that comes out of the Yucatan region and that very well may be the case. I think of it simply as salsa verde. 

Quite honestly a sum of two very delicious parts. As humble as it may look, the simple step 1 of cooking the chicken in a pot of water with chopped onions,  cilantro & a few other ingredients is key to the intense flavors that follow. 

Step 2 is the sauce, the salsa verde. There are different ways this is cooked, some  simply sauté the ingredients others like myself, love roasting them. 

Whatever you decide to do, the ingredients remain the same – lots of tomatillos, jalapenos and onions tossed with oil and roasted until the tomatillos are blistered. The mixture is then pureed with freshly roasted cumin and fresh cilantro. The result is a deliciously refreshing tangy sauce. The chicken is simmered in for a few final minutes in the salsa verde and served with Mexican rice. Another one of my favorite dishes and recipe to follow soon. 

Before you go around thinking that tomatillos are the same as green tomatoes and go buy a whole bunch ( and I can’t blame you for doing so), this green tomato look alike has nothing to do with the family of tomatoes but is actually akin to the nightshade family, related to the cape gooseberry. Go figure! 

I buy them in heaps and cheap at the Mexicana grocery store. The same ingredients cost an arm and leg as they are considered ‘exotic’ in a regular grocery store. 

Either way, I think you’re going to love this one.

Carne de Porco à Alentejana ~ Braised Pork & Clams from Portugal

Pork and clams are a traditional combination from Portugal. This dish hails from the region of Alentejana and if you think that’s what makes this dish unique is just that it combines pork with clams, well then that’s not just it.

The real secret is the red bell pepper paste known as massa de pimentao. Traditionally, this is made by marinating bell pepper strips overnight with salt. Obviously, this is to draw the moisture out of the cells and soften the vegetable. The bell pepper is then blended into a pesto like paste with garlic cloves and olive oil. Yummy!

All that salt acts as a natural preservative and will keep in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks. Mind you, I love using it all in the stew plus, any extra is the best on sandwiches. Thus far, I have yet to end up with a jar of this yumminess just sitting in the refrigerator. You can also buy the paste bottled up and purists insist on Incopil brand. However, I love the paste freshly made and with it being so hard to but it in the U.S. why not just make it at home?

If you are tempted to use middle eastern Ajvar as a substitute, I wouldn’t, simply because there is no ‘heat’ component in the traditional recipe.

This is such a simple stew once you make the red bell pepper paste, the pork chunks are marinated overnight with massa de pimentao and a generous glug of white wine and stewed the next day.  Clams get added towards the end and a sprinkle of chopped up parsley and cilantro with lemon wedges and crust bread is all that’s required to complete this delicious meal.

Just one last thing, don’t use a lean cut of pork because like in all old world stews, you need the fat to render softer meat. Tenderloin may be tempting but you’ll be chewing on chunks of leather by the time you’re done! 

 

Spicy Shredded Chicken Tortilla Soup

 

I must admit that this is one of the most robust and beloved soups to come out of our kitchen.

There are myriad versions of this soup all over the internet, some with fried tortillas some with chicken chunks and cream and some with no spices.

My version is most definitely inspired by our years in the Southwest and that means this chicken tortilla soups has full and vibrant flavors, the scent of cumin as it wafts through the air and the absolutely essential earthy l flavor of cornmeal as I try to capture the incredible flavor of Arizona masa.

The combination of cornmeal and spices is pure magic and the thick strips of corn tortillas, soaked with with the soup is marvelous. You'll find this soup so hearty and so comforting that I doubt you'll take it off your meal rotation.

Not to mention how easy it all is with rotisserie chicken and canned black beans. As for us, we're belly full and hooked!

Portuguese Style Bacalhau ~ A Layered Salted Cod & Potato Stew from Brazil

Every day I grow exceedingly fond of salted cod, bacalhau.

I adore the texture, the meatiness and the flavor that is so unlike fresh cod. And what started out as a necessity on those large voyages when the Portuguese set out across the Atlantic to colonize Brazil, has evolved into a culinary delight that is quintessentially Brazilian.

There are several versions of bacalhau or salted cod stew and I love the one I blogged a few weeks earlier - here

This version is a completely different take on the previous one with a few more steps - boiled potatoes, oil cured olives - kalamata or a mix, boiled eggs, roasted red peppers, sauteed onions and poached, flaked salted cod are all baked together in layers with generous glugs of olive oil.

Wonderfully flavorful all together, just the ingredient list makes me want to do a happy dance!

I recommend this for a weekend dinner or when company is over. It makes quite an impression, I guarantee! Some wonderful bread and a nice crisp white wine is all that you need.

Mind you, you'll need to begin at least 24 hours in advance to de-salt the cod and this is a step by no means you want to miss.

Queso Fundido ~ Shrimp, Chorizo & Roasted Poblano Peppers

 

Queso Fundido!

Finally a dish that has 'fun' in it's name and how apt!

Roughly the name translates from Spanish to  'melted cheese' and is one of those dishes that can be just that or so much more. The traditional variations to this dish is as diverse as the families that make. Using everything from just peppers, to a mix of chorizo & peppers, this is a dish that can be as simple or as complicated as you make it.

Since I have a potluck to go to, I'm making two dishes of this because it is just the dish when it comes to feeding a crowd.

Traditionally Oaxaca cheese is used for Queso fundido but I have taken the classic and reworked it.

Here's why - as much as I like the stringy cheese that Oaxaca which by the way is very very similar to mozzarella, I don't care for the lumpy texture of the fundido that results with just it.

So I'm adding a good melting cheese from Salvador but Manchego or any of your favorite melting cheese will be good too. Also, a good measure of sour cream goes a long way for a nice, smooth and much-more-apt-for-scooping-kind of texture.

Don't for one minute mistake this to end up like your 'jar of cheese sauce processed business' type of dip. It won't and thank goodness for that!

This here is a chunky, meant to be scooped-up kind of dip.

It all begins with sauteed onions, roasted poblanos, chopped jalapenos, chopped tomatoes, cumin and chipotle, then heaped with crispy chorizo sausage and shrimp and finally our cheeses which brings it all together.

So I hope you fix this for your next family gathering or football party and sports won't be the only thing the crowd will be howling about!

PS:  It disappeared quick at the pot luck as well as at home and I had many people emailing me for the recipe including professional chefs! 

 

Bacalhau ~ Brazilian Salted Cod Stew with Peppers & Olives

Ever come across a dish and thought, your life was better because of it?

Well, here's one!

Once I tasted my first bite of Balcahua, I wondered where salted cod had been my entire life and felt a shade of envy rise within me for all Brazilians, everywhere who enjoy this lovely on a regular if not daily basis. Sigh.

I know, shallow me.

It all started with the Portuguese who while colonizing Brazil had to make their long voyages across the Atlantic ocean. And since carrying fresh produce posed obvious issues, bought along with them salt cured meats and fish - namely balcahua - salt cured cod  and carne seca - salt cured beef, which evidently is a key ingredient in preparing Fejioda (pronounced Fay-jwaa-daa) Brazil's national dish.

I also placed a prompt call to my foodie friend Heguiberto of weirdcombinations without whom my life's path would perhaps have never crossed this dish. There are many many versions of salted cod splattered around the blogosphere and almost all of which are potato-laden-vegetable-missing versions.

In this delightfully rich, sunshine-bright version, the flavors from the assortment of peppers and olives mix with the rich & briny flavors of salted cod to create an incredibly delicious, perfectly salted combination of a mouthwatering meal.

Don't take my word for it - shake that fear of salted cod, try this and you'll see just what I'm bragging about.

And while you're at it, please don't forget to stop by Heguiberto & Stevie's blog and read Hegui's wonderful story about this dish.

Brazilian Street Food, Acaraje ~ Black eyed pea fritters with onion and shrimp topping

Here's a secret - I LOVE dried shrimp.

And dried anchovies.

Can't get enough of the stuff!

Which is precisely why, Acarajé (pronounced aakaa-raajay),  a specialty from the Northeastern state of Bahia in Brazil, and a popular street food is precisely my kind of grub.

Black-eyed peas, seasoned with dried shrimp, onions & garlic are shaped into fritters and deep fried in azeite de dende - red palm oil, then split and filled with various fillings, such as vatapa (a shrimp stew) or  a spicy dried shrimp and onion mixture. I have opted for the latter in today's version.

It is also considered a classic example of Afro-Brazilian cuisine and it was bought into Brazil by African slaves. Traditionally,the method for preparing the fritters was quite labor intensive as it involved, soaking the black eyed peas overnight, rubbing off the skins.

Using canned black eyed peas is a far easier though not as authentic option. I have also had to fry my fritters in vegetable oil instead of azeite de dende (purists feel free to cringe) for the simple reason that the oil is a rare commodity and hard to find here in the U.S. I have had to depend on the generosity of my Brazilian friends and amazon.com in a pinch to keep my stock up. But by all means, if you have a free flow of azeite de dende then that is most definitely the way to go.

What's lovely about these bite sized appetizers is that the black eyed peas give the fritters a sweet, mild flavor while the spicy dried shrimp and onions mixture a spicy-smoky flavor that works so very well together.

Also, each cooked fritter is traditionally split and then filled with the shrimp - onion mixture but I find it  much easier to line a platter with the fritters and mound each with the topping or pass the topping around in a bowl.

I do however think that using fresh shrimp instead of the dried will take away fromthis dish so if I were you, I'd stick with the dried shrimp.

Peruvian Salmon Ceviche

When a gleaming fillet of fresh salmon calls to me at the fish market, it invariably has ceviche  written all over it.

Mr. Hubby is not what I call a crazed out foodie. I feel for him. It must be hard for him to be living with someone who is always amped up about food and has an opinion about everything she eats.

And so though Mr. Hubby does appreciate good food, you'll never hear him swooning, drooling, cussing or fussing over a dish (unlike someone else we know). However, just the words ceviche & sashimi let  loose in a conversation brings a twinkle to Mr. Hubby's eyes.

Ceviche (pronounced sa-vee-chay) involves the process of chemically cooking fish in an acidic base such as lime lemon or other citric juices has been around a long time and one variation of this dish or the other is easily found is most Latin countries.

It also happens to be a staple in our kitchen and is happily devoured by grown-ups and kids alike especially in warm weather but come to think of it, I make this quite often in the winter too.

When you go down the ingredient list with fresh salmon fillet, ripe cocktail tomatoes, ripe avocado, limes, fresh cilantro leaves, good quality olive oil,  bell pepper & Serrano chiles, is it any wonder why?!

Pescado a la Veracruzana ~ Fish Veracruz-Style

Pescado à la veracruzana is one of the most famous seafood dishes from Veracruz on the Caribbean coast of eastern Mexico. Though Mexico is traditionally a Meso-American cuisine, there is a tremendous Spanish influence in the food ever since Spanish conquered the Aztec empire.

The ingredients and seasonings in this dish personify this strong Spanish influence. It is a real favorite in our home and with the ease of preparation and delicious flavors and makes an excellent candidate for a weeknight meal or  when company is over.

Traditonally this dish is made with huachinango or red snapper fillets and the Veracruz sauce features Manzanella - Spanish green olives, jalapeños, and capers. It is incredible how a handful of flavors come together to create a incredibly flavorful & delicious sauce that is Veracruzana all the way.

As you know, red snapper is not what you call an economical fish and can cost a pretty packet! But don't let that put you off, I use grouper fillets all the time just like I have today and it turns out wonderfully. I prefer to reserve the red snapper fillets for when company is over.

If you love fish, I urge you to give this a go. I know that you'll enjoy this refreshing & beautifully flavored dish as much as we do.

Mexican Style Spicy Chicken Bites with Mole Dipping Sauce

With Super Bowl Sunday around the corner (Feb 3, 2013 to be precise),  I cannot in all good conscience leave you without these delicious chicken bites - ancho chile, cumin and citrus marinated chicken strips served with a creamy chocolate & chipotle chile Mole sauce.

Mole is pronounced mo-lay btw and has nothing to do with tiny furry animals.

This quintessential American phenomenon called Super Bowl is THE biggest game in American sports and will have over 163 million American rooted to their couches in front of their ginormous teles for the better part of Sunday night. That number just happens to be more than half this country's population!

Super Bowl Sunday is as much about the food, the booze, the commercials as it is about the game.

For those outside the U.S, who feel the need to be educated will find all their burning questions answered here - 2013 Super Bowl - Super Bowl XLVII - NFL.com

It just so happens that my attempt to get Thursday night dinner on the table this week throwing some chicken thighs together resulted in a major 'aha moment'.

Using staple Mexican spices to create a dry rub for the chicken and adding lime and orange for zest, resulted in mouthwatering, flavor infused chicken bites. A chocolatey Mole sauce seemed to be the perfect way to counterbalance the heat with a sweet and luscious dipping sauce.

I know this recipes comes just in the nick of time but some things are just better late than never!

Albondigas de Camarones ~ Mark Miller's Mexican Style Shrimp & Corn Dumpling Soup

Every culture has its dumplings to rave about.

Albondigas de Camarones from Mexican cuisine is an example of some of the finest. In fact I'll go so far as to say, it is one of this cuisines finest soups.

Fresh shrimp combines with succulent corn, Mexican oregano and cinnamon to make  delicate yet instensely flavored meatballs. This is then poached in a soup potent with clam juice, stock, tomatoes and the incomparable flavor of chipotle peppers.

All in all, though it makes a great addition to the winter table, the flavors are so refreshing that I can see it being a soup for all seasons. I also love the fact that it is light and not as heavy on the belly as it's meatier compadres.

I have been eyeing this recipe by Mark Miller for a very long time. For those of you who have been with me a while know that I have been a fan of Mark Miller ever since I have been a teenybopper in pig tails.

So with a plethora of Albondigas de Camarones dotting the blogosphere, it should come as no surprise that his is the one I'd gravitate towards. His techqniques follow time honored culinary traditions tempered with a healthy respect for creative liberties & modern twist. A concept, I for one admire and mirror in my own kitchen.

So without further ado, Albondigas de Camarones ~

Mouthwatering Spicy Caribbean Jerk Chicken

I think you will agree that for most part I cook yummy things.

But here is a first - even for me!

So tantalizing was this chicken when it came out of the oven that I promptly sat down on the table, served the kids and dug in. I also forgot to call Mr. Hubby to dinner  & just started eating. It was only when Mr. Hubby walked over to the table and said "What are you doing? I thought you were blogging this - what no pics?" that I went "Oh C**p, I FORGOT to blog this and too late for final pics"!

Now, I have been making a recipe for Jerk Chicken for years but one twist, thanks to my friend Zibi, sent this chicken to a whole new dimension i.e. the addition of green onions. Seriously, that was the magic that had me finger licking the marinade the night before and resulting in a chook so delicious that I forgot all about blogging.

And any dish that makes me forget about blogging, should have all of you running to the supermarket!

Now.

ALFAJORES De Dulce De Leche Cookies from Argentina

Meet Argentina's favorite street food - Alfajores.

Think Buttery Shortbreads Sandwiched with Caramel & Rolled in Coconut Flakes

Though there are many variations of this cookie all throughtout South America, the most common fillings are chocolate, dulce de leche & jam. As Dulce de Leche goes, you can of course go the super market route but  as it's all the better home made.

How to make dulce de leche at home? Follow the cooked can method in one of my previous posts. You can make one can at a time but why bother when they'll keep for a long time in the pantry, unopened or refrigerated.

I first got hooked to these darlings as we continued to frequent our favorite Argentinian  gelato place Dolcezza in Georgetown Washington D.C for their superlative gelatos, coffees and of course Alfajores. Just so you know, Argentinian gelato varies from it's Italian cousin in that's its creamier and made without eggs.

These cookies are all the rage during the holidays of course but since when do you need an excuse to enjoy these treats? These are even better when dunked in dulce de leche as you enjoy them with your cuppa.

That's what we've been doing all Sunday afternoon!

Smokin' NOT Hot 'POSOLE ROJA' ~ A Rich & Smoky Mexican Pork Stew with Chiles & Hominy Corn

To welcome the joy of a thick, rich steaming bowl of Pozole (pronounced po-zo-lay) in your life you'd have to get rid of one important presumption that,

Chiles are hot

In most of Asia this holds true. If a chilli ain't hot, why bother!

It's only when you've been accquainted with the Southwestern and Mexican chiles like Guajillo, Anjo, Chipotle & Casabel that the opposite holds true - these chiles are smoky, rich and complex not hot.

At the heart of a great Pozole is a dried chile paste which gives it a thick texture, vibrant color and unforgettable earthy aroma. Here I've used dried Guajillo peppers that have been soaked in boiling water, turned into a fine paste and added into the simmering stewed pork. To this add the incredibly flavorful kernels of Hominy corn and you have an exquisite Pozole.

Guajillo chiles (pronounced Gwaa-hillo) are the backbone of Mexican-style cooking lending their classic smoky, rich and complex flavors to any dish. Especially fantastic with pork, these chiles have a 'heat reading' of 6000 scoville units.

Hominy corn is dried maize kernels that are treated and are available in cans in Latino or Mexican grocery stores.

Where to buy dried Chiles?

I buy all my chiles at Penzeys Spices and can vouch for their quality but feel free to shop at your neigbourhood Mexican/Latino stores.

Thank goodness for my years in the Southwestern USA where I learned so much about Mexican and southwestern cuisines I hope you'll find comfort from a cold blustery evening in the welcoming bowl of Pozole.

Dangerously Good ~ Cantina Carnitas, Soft Tacos & Pico De Gallo

When it comes to some eats I suffer from a predilection of culinary snobbery. For those of us who lived or have for any length of time lived it those states of the US that abut the Mexican border, we've had the opportunity to taste some seriously good Mexican grub.

Not the kind that is regularly dished out to the unsuspecting folk in other parts of the world but the kind available in little cantinas, barrios and little abuela-owned hole-in-the-wall places. You know the kind that is just an ordinary eatery in places like Nogales from where you can see Mexican sprawl in your line of sight.

So you will forgive me when I don't jump up and down in glee when you suggest we go for 'Mexican' in let's say - Maine. I mean no offense but I wouldn't dream of getting lobster rolls in Arizona - so there, we're even!

Now before I offer you the recipe for some of the very best Carintas you will ever chow down, let me explain something. There is no true and blue recipe for Carnitas - it's a recipe that has evolved naturally with each family adding their own special twist. I know families who marinate theirs in orange juice, many in beer, some loaded with hot serrano chiles and some who barely spice theirs at all.

But one thing remains the same in all these recipes is the method of cooking the pork that renders it so tender and then finished to a beautiful mahogany brown. I have known many families to cook their pork and then fry it up in lard which is actually  the traditional way.

My Carnitas has evolved over our time spent in the Southwest. And I won't tweak it, change it or mess with it for all the Dos Equis in the world. The pork is spiced, marinated in beer overnight and then slow cooked for about 6 hours. Once shredded, I add no additional fat and saute it in its own juices till the meat is a rich mahogany brown.

The meat is served over griddle warmed corn tortillas with a touch of ghee  (oh yes! clarified butter has been used traditonally for a very long time) - double layers of corn tortillas to soak up the juices of course!

Finally topped with Pico De Gallo - what makes mine dangerously good? In additon to the usual ingredients of tomatoes, onions, cilantro and jalapenos, the trio of -lime, beer, & sugar work their magic and takes this Pico De Gallo to a whole other level. 

Pork butt is the meat of choice which by the way has nothing to do with piggy bottom. It's rather the upper portion of the shoulder.

Enough talk - it's time to put the Carnitas where the mouth is!

A Cake of Three Milks - Tres Leches Cake from Latin America

Also known as Pastel Tres Leches or Pan Tres Leches in Spanish, this cake consists of a sponge cake which is then soaked in three milks - evaporated milk, condensed milk and heavy cream. Thus the name, the Cake of Three Milks. The texture of the cake is not soggy even though it is soaked overnight in milk.

My years in India, Australia and Singapore, I was completely oblivious of the existence of this cake and pretty much most foods from Latin America. Needless to say, two decades ago, latin foods had not yet reached the far corners of the world on Main street. This is almost impossible to comprehend in today's world, a world shrunk to the size of a peanut sometimes it seems.

So my first introduction to spoonfuls of this heavenly cake took place about five years ago at potluck at my son's martial arts dojo and as I heard the Sensei go into vivid detail about how she spent all this time fixing it and soaking it and what have you, I remember walking away with not only the delicious flavor but a heavy dose of apprehension and overwhelmingness that pretty much translated to "Yah, like I'm ever going to make that!"

Safely, said that was the last time any thought was given to Tres leches for a long long time. And then, Alton Brown happened to the food Network and his recipe changed everything. First of all, in his quirky laid back way, he took all the ouchie away from the whole process and as I heard him talk about it all I heard was - "Make a cake, soak it in milk, whip up the cream, smear the cake and voila - done"

And I thought, now this I can do!

So thank you Alton Brown for this wonderful recipe. I have made two additions (what did you expect?) and quite honestly I won't have it any other way - adding ground cinnamon and nutmeg and reducing the amount of suagr used in the topping. In my book, Tres leches just went from great to fantabulous!

So though I'm not done looking for the next frontier in tres leches, here's step one on that ladder!