I enjoy taking every opportunity to celebrate holidays and traditions from around the world. That's something Mr. Hubby and I decided right at the onset that we would do - always celebrate the traditions of every country we lived in & live in. It's our way of reminding ourselves & our children that it truly is a small world, full of wonder and to keep an open mind about our differences. Because our differences is what also makes it all so very exciting.
I mean who wants to live in a world surrounded by oneself?!
So when Easter took me quite my surprise this week and I finally decided to get my act together just in time to fix something special for it, I was astounded by the variety of desserts prepared for this occasion in the various regions of Italy.
Sweet Easter Bread in Sicily, Easter Fruitcake from Trieste and this Ricotta Pie from Campania in the Naples region.
This would be exciting in itself but it was made more so by the fact that there are variations to this centuries old recipe - some using farro, whole wheat, cracked rice & even cracked wheat. The whole grains signify fertility for Easter.
In this version of the recipe, the textures & flavors using whole wheat berries, pine nuts, candied orange peels and orange flower water was something I couldn't resist.
I
have had to start a good 24
hours earlier to
baking day as you know because I have not been able to locate candied
orange peels as
these are usually sold in the US during holiday season. So I have had to
make these from scratch.
If you are in a similar
predicament, you
will find the post on how to make candied orange peels at home here
Also the wheat berries require a good 6-8 hours or overnight soaking. And so it was that at 10.00 PM last night I finally began fixing this pie.
Note to self - Do not start pies
late at night unless you are prepared to stay up into the wee hours of
the morning!...sigh...
In the kitchen with me are my favorite people when it comes to regional Italian cooking - Mario Balati (I could kiss his orange crocs!) and Nika Hazelton. Not in person silly, their books!
I have had Hazelton's cookbook since I was about 10 years old. Picked it up from a street vendor in Mumbai and have treasured it since. She was writing books way before I was born & I really love her down to earth attitude to cooking Italian regional foods. And Thank God for Batali - for fearlessly bringing true local regional Italian cooking (such as sea urchins) into the main stream here in the US as in his restaurants Lupa & Esca, NYC.
I am using Hazelton's more embellished version for the filling here but using Batali's dough thicknesses and baking times. Other than that the recipe are pretty darn similar.
There are 3 categories to this recipe:
- Filling
- Pasta Frolla, Sweet pastry dough. You will find the recipe for that here
- Assembly & weave pie crust
Off we go - first with the wheat berries.
Earlier in the day I soaked the wheat berries in plenty of hot water for about 6-8 hours. As the wheat berries took on water they swelled, softened and got darker. Sieve and set aside after soaking period.
In a pan, add the wheat berries, completely cover with water and bring to boil on high heat. Lower heat, cover with a tight fitting lid and cook for 30 minutes. Stirring occasionally. Sieve and set aside. The wheat berries will be softer but still have a crunch to them.
Now its time to begin with the - Pasta Frolla, Sweet pastry
dough.
Because this recipe is a must in one's culinary arsenal and will be used time and time again for various other recipes, you'll find the post here
Once the spring foam pan is lined with pastry dough & is cooling in the refrigerator, begin preparing the filling.
Preheat the oven to 350 deg F
Wheat berries - To the boiled wheat berries add the butter, milk & sugar. On medium-high heat bring to boil.
Reduce the heat to low and keep cooking the wheat berries, regularly stirring until almost all the milk has been evaporated. When there is a little liquid in the pan and it looks like the sugar is beginning to crystallize (about 30 minutes) sieve the berries & drain away the remaining liquid.
You will be left with the milk solids & sugar mixed in with the wheat berries.
While this is cooking prepare the remaining ingredients but keep an eye on the wheat berries so it does not stick to the bottom of the pan.
Lemon & Orange rinds - Using a rind tool or a fine vegetable grater, grate the rind from the orange and lemons. Keep turning the fruit to avoid grating into the pith. Grate both in the same bowl.
Raisins - Soak in plenty of hot water. Set aside.
Candied Orange peels - Place in a mini-chopper and chop till very fine. You will need about 1/2 cup finely chopped peels so do this in 2 batches if needed.
In a large mixing bowl add the ricotta, orange and lemon rinds, orange flower water & heavy cream. Using a hand immersion blender, beat the mixture till smooth.
Separate one egg and a time and place 1 yolk into the mixture. Beat till smooth. Then repeat with the next egg yolk. Keep going till all 4 egg yolks are incorporated.
To the blended ricotta mixture, add the pine nuts, finely chopped orange candied peels & ground cinnamon. With a rubber spatula fold till well incorporated.
Add the soaked raisins and fold again. Add the cooked wheat berries and fold until well incorporated.
Cook's Note - I think it is very interesting that the sugar in the pie comes by transference from the wheat berries. No sugar is directly added into the filling and it the sweetness is in perfect proportion.
The texture of the filling is incredible - so rich, wholesome and rustic. You just know you're dealing with a very old recipe here. So unlike the smooth fillings that we generally find nowadays. The flavors are phenomenal.
Fill the refrigerated pastry base with the filling and smooth the top with a rubber spatula. Set aside.
To begin the woven pastry top -
Roll the pastry out with the refrigerated dough ball to diameter of the spring foam pan (about 11")
Place a scale in the center of the rolled pastry and using a paring knife, cut at 1" increments towards you.

Using a pizza wheel, cut the strip all the way until the pastry is cut into 1" lengths.
Place the spring foam close to the pastry top.
Beginning with the pastry length at one end, lift each alternate length and place on the pie keeping the same 1" separation between the lengths.
Lift & fold over each alternate pastry length along its own length. Place the longest length in the center of the pie, perpendicular to the other pastry lengths as shown. Unfold the folded pastry lengths over the perpendicular lengths.
Now take the parallel lengths that are running underneath the
perpendicular strip and fold them back over the perpendicular strip, as
shown. Lay down a second perpendicular length of dough next to the first length, with some space between the lengths. Unfold the folded parallel lengths over the second length.
Remember - Keep going alternating lengths till you get one half of the pie done.
Then begin working on the other side of the pie. That way you won't get confused as to which lengths to use.
Now onto the other side of the pie -
Continue this process until the weave is complete over the entire top. The edges will remain folded around the sides of the pan until the whole pie is done. 
Once the weave on whole the top of the
pie is complete, using a dinner knife, trim the edge of each length and press each edge down into the pie base (so the two pastry's meet & join)
This is what it looks like once the weave & trimming is complete
Beat some of the left over egg whites.
With a pastry brush, gently smudge the egg while over the weave till the whole weave has an egg wash. Do not use long strokes all over the pie. Restrict the egg wash over the weave only.
Bake in pre-heated oven for 55-60 minutes until the top is beautiful golden brown. Detach the spring foam pan sides
and allow to cool.
Loving the weave!
The texture in this pie is incredible. The first scent that hit us when we cut into it was the scent of oranges. The textures with the whole grains is wonderful nestled in the sweetened ricotta. The pastry is flaky and with every bite the entire spectrum of flavors come together. This is not an oozing pie but firm & rich. Very old world indeed!
As we were having this after lunch, I looked out and saw the orange blossom trees in full bloom and I realized that the people who originally created this pie had done something quite remarkable - they had managed to capture the essence of spring in a dish!
Don't you want a piece of that?
Recipe
for
{La Pastiera di Grana} A Traditional Wholegrain Easter Ricotta Pie from Campania, Italy
Grain soaking time - 8 hours or overnight
Preparation
time - 1-1/2 hours
Cooking time - 1 hour
Makes 1 # 11" double crust pie
Shopping
list
1 cup wheat berries
water to soak & boil wheat
1 cup milk
3/4 cup granulated sugar
2 cups (1 lb) fresh ricotta cheese
2 tbs heavy cream
1 orange (rind)
2 lemons (rind)
1/4 cup orange flower water
4 egg yolks
1/2 cup pine nuts
1/2 cup raisins
1/2 cup full finely chopped candied orange peels
1
recipe for double crust sweet pastry - Pasta Frolla
1/4 tsp ground cinnamon
2 egg whites beaten - for wash
Preparation
-
Wheat berries - Soaked the wheat
berries in plenty of hot water for about 6-8 hours or overnight. Sieve and set
aside after soaking period.
In a pan, add the wheat
berries, completely cover with water and bring to boil on high heat.
Lower heat, cover with a tight fitting lid and cook for 30 minutes.
Stirring occasionally. Sieve and set aside. The wheat berries
will be softer but still have a crunch to them.
Pasta Frolla, Sweet pastry
dough - Begin with this recipe here
Return to the wheat berries - To the boiled
wheat berries add the butter, milk & sugar. On medoum-high heat
bring to boil.
Reduce the heat to
low and keep cooking the wheat berries, regularly stirring until
almost all the milk has been evaporated. When there is a little liquid
in the pan and it looks like the sugar is beginning to crystallize
(about 30 minutes) sieve the berries & drain away the remaining
liquid.
You will left with the milk solids &
sugar mixed in with the wheat berries.
While this is cooking prepare the remaining ingredients
but keep an eye on the wheat berries so it does not stick to the bottom
of the pan.
Lemon & Orange rinds - Using a rind tool or a
fine vegetable grater, grate the rind. Keep turning the fruit to avoid
grating into the pith.
Raisins - Soak in plenty of hot water. Set
aside.
Candied Orange peels - Place in a mini-chopper
and chop till very fine. You will need about 1/2 cup finely chopped
peels so do this in 2 batches if needed.
Filling -
Preheat the oven to 350 deg F
In a
large mixing bowl add the ricotta, orange and lemon rinds, orange
flower water & heavy cream. Using a hand immersion blender, beat the
mixture till smooth.
Separate
one egg and a time and place 1 yolk into the mixture. Beat till smooth.
Then repreat with the next egg yolk. Keep going till all 4 egg yolks
are incorporated so.
To the
blended ricotta mixture, add the pine nuts, finely chopped orange
candied peels & ground cinnamon. With a rubber spatula fold till
well incorporated.
Add
the soaked raisins and fold again. Add the cooked wheat berries and fold
until well incorporated.
Fill the refrigerated pastry base with
the filling and smooth the top with a rubber spatula. Set aside.
Begin to weave pastry top -
Roll the pastry out with the
refrigerated dough ball to diameter of the spring foam pan (about 11")
Place a scale in
the center of the rolled pastry and using a paring knife, cut at 1"
increments towards you.
Using a pizza wheel, cut the strip
all the way until the pastry is cut into 1" lengths.
Place the spring foam close to the pastry top.
Beginning with the pastry length at one
end, lift each alternate length and place on the pie keeping the same 1"
separation between the lengths.
Lift & fold over each
alternate pastry length along its own length. Place the longest length in the center of the pie, perpendicular
to the other pastry lengths as shown. Unfold the
folded strips over the perpendicular strip.
Now
take the parallel lengths that are running underneath the
perpendicular strip and fold them back over the perpendicular strip, as
shown. Lay down a second perpendicular length of dough next to the first
length, with some space between the lengths. Unfold the folded parallel
lengths over the second length.
Remember
- Keep going alternating lengths till you get one half of the pie done.
Then
begin working on the other side of the pie. That way you won't get
confused as to which length to use.
Continue this process until the weave is complete over
the top of the
pie. The edges will remain folded around the sides of the pan until the
weave over the whole pie is complete.
Once the weave on whole the top of the
pie is complete, using a dinner knife, trim the edge of each length and
press each edge down into the pie base (so the two pastry's meet &
join)
With a pastry brush, gently smudge the
egg while over the weave till the whole weave has an egg wash. Do not
use long strokes all over the pie. Restrict the egg wash over the weave
only.
Baking the pie -
Bake in
pre-heated oven for 55-60 minutes until the top is beautiful golden
brown.
Detach the spring foam pan sides and
allow to cool. Slice into wedges and serve warm or at room temperature. Not chilled.
Enjoy!
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