Weave a Thousand Flavors

Unfussy Home Style Italian Fish With Peas

Here's one from my poor student, uni days.

Thinking back, no wonder I was always broke - seems like I was feeding the whole dorm on any given night. I have always loved to cook but more than that I love to feed. Call it maternal instincts on overdrive with a dash of cultural idiosyncrasies.

I think such is true of almost all old world cultures - we are feeders!

Don't ever make the mistake of telling us you're full because chances are we're going to shovel another heapful onto your plate at that precise moment. Kid you not.

Speaking of student days, Mum had the foresight to pack some of my trusted cookbooks along with everything else. And thank goodness she packed my tattered , no frills Italian cook book by Nika Hazelton. Long before Batali, it's thanks to Nika that my love for home style honest Italian cuisine blossomed.

I still flip open the old girl every now and then and she never disappoints. This recipe however is an adaptation of one she makes with whole halibut. However, I've been making this simpler and economical version forever and it doesn't disappoint.

What more, its healthful and perfect for even the low-carb dieters.

I'm hoping to pass on my tattered cookbook to my boys when they're off to uni - the real question is how long does sticky tape hold and will they ever bother to open  its archaic pages? I'll let you know in about a decade!

Splendid in a Hurry : Tuscan Mussel & Clam Soup

"What's the point of living if you can't take a moment to smell the roses"?

So used to say the Nepali foreman on my job site in Singapore.

A lovely thought.

But right now, being at the helm of Holiday baking & kiddy concerts and class parties that seem to have taken over my existence, smelling the roses seems to be the farthest thing from my mind.

I am sure most of us women sometimes feel like the hamster on a ferris wheel where the endless rigors of the day take its toll. Days filled with picking up kids, dropping up kids, waiting during their activities, cooking, cleaning, shopping etc etc. Not to mention the demands of a full time  job with equally demanding & relentless people. And that's not even during the holidays!

Yes smelling roses is a distant notion indeed.

On such days, I take solace in a quick and elegant dinner. Something that forces me to take a deep breath, reminds me of fresh baked bread, cobblestone streets, azure waters and a bright golden sun. And few places in the world inspire a cook like Italy. And so with a handful of 'Oh so Tuscan' ingredients, a glass of wine and 15 minutes to spare, a dinner worth mention is created.

So I guess one man's roses, is another woman's soup.

Orecchiette Pasta with Italian Sausage & Rapini-Pistachio Pesto

 

When was the last time you met a bunch of broccoli-rabe a.k.a rapini? If introductions were previously made but you suffer being unable to place its name or worse having forgotten its face, its time to make those introductions again.

People, meet broccoli-rabe also known as rapini.

Photo courtesy Mariquita Farm.

Broccoli rabe is in the same genus as broccoli, its a Brassica, it's flavor however is more akin to  turnip & mustard greens.  It is not, however, the same thing as broccolini or baby broccoli, which are much sweeter.

If you have been ignoring this lustrous green leafy vegetable with spiky green leaves & clusters of yellow flowers because you've heard or having tasted it, dislike the slightly bitter flavor that is characteristic of this vegetable, then I am sorry to say friend that the fault lies with the cook. Yup, that's right, blame it on the cook! Because, done right this vegetable is Nature's gift to us gastronauts.

In this dish, we blanch it is boiling water till just tender and still a bright green and then turn it into a silky pesto loaded with the flavor of fresh garlic, aged parmesan and nutty-sweet pistachios. And if this weren't enough we smooth its ruffled feathers with creamy mascarpone. All this is only improved with the flavors of Italian sausage and pasta with which its tossed.

If this description wasn't enough and you are one of those healthful-living-geeks then let this be your mind changer. The big news with broccoli rabe is its cancer-preventing potential. Also it is rich in antioxidant-rich vitamins A and C, both of which fight off dangerous free radicals that can cause damage to your body's cells not to mention potassium, fiber, and calcium.

Now there's a good reason to re-accquaint yourself with this lovely. I rest my case.

 

Sicilian Style Roasted Cauliflower Salad with Capers & Roasted Red Peppers

It's incredible what we retain in passing conversations. At no point growing up did my Mum and Grandma ever sit me down and say "Don't boil your cauliflower" and yet here I am with that understanding as clear as a bell that cauliflower and water and not necessarily the best of friends.

It's just that cauliflower gains nothing from boiling or the addition of water and in fact loses its nutrients in the process. Enter, roasting.

Now here is a cooking method I love - the cauliflower with just a touch of olive oil, salt and pepper, comes alive and releases its natural sweetness making this an oh so delicious vegetable.

So when I came across this Sicilian recipe, I fell in love with the fresh ingredients minus the boiling and then decided to tweak it some. Now did you really think I was going to follow a recipe to the T? Since when has that ever happened!

So here are my tweaks, out with boiling the caulis and in with roasting, out with vinegar and in with fresh lemon juice and zest. And since using black olives would be poor form to traditional oil cured olives which I had none off,  I decided to use golden raisins instead.  Also, I thought the roasted red peppers though not traditional add that wonderful (and much needed) burst of color.

And there you are - Sicilian Cauliflower Salad, only better!

Pasta Alla Norma ~ Sicilian Style Pasta with Roasted Eggplant, Tomatoes, Basil & Ricotta Salata

 
Ever since we watched Il Postino, years ago, this wonderful Italian film about an incredible relationship that unfolds between the village postman and Chilean poet Pablo Naruda, I have been in love with all things Sicilian.

So when I came across a write up in the NY Times about the romantic history about this Sicilian dish, Pasta Alla Norma, named after Vincenzo Bellini’s opera “Norma”, Bellini also born in Catania, Sicily, how could I resist? Talk of romancing the food!

As the story goes, Nino Martoglio, a famous Catanese writer and poet being once “confronted” with this wonderful dish said: “this pasta is a Norma“ a word synonymous with perfection.

Pasta alla Norma is a typical Sicilian dish, using eggplants, sweet and ripe tomatoes, ricotta salata, fresh basil, olive oil and maccheroni pasta.

Purists will insist on three things - one that the pasta must be maccheroni …well, I am using strozzapreti and secondly that the eggplant slices must be fried in olive oil. I will say this, the amount of oil an eggplant can drink scares the heck out of me so I have decided that since I love, absolutely love the taste of roasted eggplant, I am going to in fact go that route.

From this point on, it can only be improved upon by the flavors of the stewed tomatoes, lots of basil and Ricotta Salata for which my dearies, there is simply no substitute.

And no dearies, Parmesan (which seems to be the solution to all of pasta's grievances, will not do!) This salty sheeps milk cheese, similar to feta in texture,  has a one of a kind flavor and does wonders bringing all the flavors in the pasta together.

Ricotta Salata is available at specialty food stores like Whole foods and Trader Joes here in the US.

This pasta with all these wonderful ingredients, fresh flavors is made all the more attractive by the fact that it's a quickie!

So join me in the kitchen as we dream of Sicily and dine on Pasta Alla Norma.

 

A Christmas Tradition from Naples : My adventures with 'Struffoli' ~ Citrus and Honey Fritters

A story is a sum of its parts. And so it is that this story is a sum of three - and this story has an idyllic beginning, a rude awakening and thankfully, a happy ending. The idyllic beginning to this story sets forth in the wonderful city of Sydney, more than a decade ago. 

It was during one such winter break that I met Umberto, an acting student from Sicily who was attending the National Institute of Dramatic Art (yes, the very same school Mel Gibson attended) and was using our college as temporary housing. He had moved to the room across from mine for the holidays and introductions were made over foaming mouths as he borrowed my toothpaste one morning.

When Christmas day arrived, we awoke to a hot and sultry weather which is quite usual as it is summer, down under. Most of us were heading to the beach for  a barbie and a swim and Umberto looked at everyone with a puzzled expression. He said, "Barbie,  What about some Struffoli? In Naples I always knew that Christmas week had arrived, not by the date on the calendar but because in in the center of the table would be a plate full of Struffoli". Of course we had no idea what he was on about.

Next thing we know, he walks over to the kitchen, speaks to the head cook and asks us to go grocery shopping with him. We return huffing and puffing loaded with flour, sugar, honey, lemons and oranges. We followed him into the kitchen and went to work. He was head chef and I was one of his line cooks.

 And so it was, that much later on Christmas day looking over the azure waters at Coogee beach, a handful of Uni students from the world over, savored our first plateful of Struffoli. These little doughnut-like balls enveloped with honey and the scent of lemons and oranges are a wonderful reminder of simpler times and simple pleasures.

Now wouldn't this have been a wonderful ending to this story? Written on a piece of old yellow parchment in my recipe pit is Umberto family recipe of Struffoli? I wish!

I, in fact have only scribblings of Umberto's family recipe with no proportions  in writing and all of it put together looks like runaway feline scratchings. So I turned to the dear man in orange crocs, Mario Batali. After all, how can I go wrong with Mario?

 But Alas, not only did Mario but the culinary Gods as well desert me, because what arrived on the table was this -

 Mr. Hubby took one look at them and said,"They look like shrivelled 'nuts' in winter! Are they supposed to look like this?"!

The kids who were also looking at the plate with  some trepidation and thankfully missed the meaning of what was just said,   announced, "Daddy, they look like walnuts" Unfortunately, they were as hard as walnuts too. Sigh.

I was sad. I barely looked into Mr. Hubby's eyes and just hung from my shoulders. After moping around for about 2 hours, I decided there was no way I was going to rest my head on a pillow this night without conquering the art of Struffoli making.

I reviewed the recipe again, and squealed to Mr. Hubby who was now sitting at his computer with a pair of headphones (no doubt to block away my whimpering sounds), which I promptly yanked off his head and said, "Nani (my gran) would have smacked me on the head! There is no fat in this recipe! How can we have soft, fluffy airy dough balls with no fat? I'm fixing them again and you have to eat them!"

Mr. Hubby mumbles, "I do?"

 

So off I went and reworked the same recipe but with less eggs, a smidgen of baking powder and buttah...you hear me, buttah!

 

And what we have here are these - marvellous, airy, light and bearing no resemblance to 'nuts' whatsoever -Struffoli!

 
 

 ~The {happy} End~

 

Whole Grain Pasta with Creamy Sun dried Tomatoes, Roasted Red Peppers & Basil Sauce

We should all have a 'go to pasta' recipe for those nights when all creative ideas elude us or when a dinner party reveals one pesky guest who forgot to let us know that he was well -  a vegetarian.

It also helps when the recipe is creamy, delicious and just plain ol' lip smackin' good.

Now I hate to sound like one of those health commercials but to the great taste, add the health benefits of whole grain pasta which offers two types of fiber and a host of vitamins & minerals  & I say we have a keeper.

Let me tell you,  I am working just as hard as the next person trying to increase the amount of whole grains we  eat on a daily basis but neither do I want to compromise on the taste. I simply can't stand food that tastes like a bowl of hay no matter what the health benefits!

Which is why this recipe is such a staple in my kitchen.

It's been with me since my good old student days - back then I'd fix this with just any 'on sale' pasta, (as long as we had good wine...smiles...)

But when I tried this with whole grain pasta, I was so floored with the results and the fact that my kids went for seconds that it keeps making an appearance again and again on my dinner table.

Give it a try - I think you'll be just as pleased.

  

The main ingredients are yellow onion, red bell pepper, sun dried tomatoes, green onions,  red pepper flakes, garlic, fresh basil, heavy cream, sour cream & hard, aged Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. 

Preheat oven to 500 deg F

 

Red Bell Peppers - Wash, remove the top, halves and discard all membranes and seeds.  Place skin side up on a baking sheet lined with aluminum foil. Spray the foil with non-stick cooking spray before placing the peppers.

Bake for 20-25 minutes or until the skin is black & blistered. Remove from the oven. Immediately place in a zip lock bag for approx 10 minutes till the peppers have cooled and shriveled up. Remove the skin. Slice the peppers into thin slices and set aside retaining all the  juices.

Basil - Wash, separate leaves from the stem. Roll up the leaves and finely slice into thin stripes i.e. chiffonade. Do not cut basil for garnish till the very end.

Yellow Onion - Peel and thinly slice the onion. Set aside.

Green Onions - Discard root tip and leaves. Shop into thin circles.

Garlic - Peel & crush

Sun dried tomatoes - If you are using the tomatoes from a jar, remove the tomatoes from the jar. Do not use liquid.Slice the tomatoes into 1/4 strips i.e. julienne 

Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese - Grate the cheese and set aside. Do not shave slices for garnish till the very end.

Measure out and set aside the pasta, heavy cream, white wine & sour cream.

Follow the directions on the pasta package and set out the water to boil with 1 tbs salt in a pasta pot. While you prepare the sauce, cook the pasta following the package directions till al dente. Drain the pasta & set aside.

 

In a saute pan, heat olive oil on medium heat till fuming. Add the garlic and as soon as it begins to brown in a few seconds, add the sliced onion. Saute for about 3 minutes till soft but not brown. It will have just begun to caramelize.

Add green onions, red pepper flakes, sun dried tomatoes & sliced red bell peppers. Saute for another 3 minutes or so or until the green onions have softened.

 

Add the wine, water, grated cheese, sour cream, heavy cream, salt, pepper & basil. Stir and heat for a couple of minutes to warm through.  Do not let it boil. Taste and adjust seasonings.

Now most recipes call for the sauce to be added to the pasta - I do it the other way around.

Why? Because, the amount of sauce I have is limited and I do not want to end up with a dry pasta, i.e. too much pasta and too little sauce so I add the pasta to the sauce and toss in batches.

That way, you can control the pasta to sauce proportion.

Remove to a serving platter. Use a vegetable peeler to shave the cheese. Garnish with thinly sliced basil leaves & Parmigiano-Reggiano shavings.

The texture is creamy and the flavors of the onions, sun dried tomatoes, red bell peppers and basil complement each other very well.

One thing that jumps out as we eat it is that we don't miss  the meat  in it at all and the complex fruit-nutty flavor of the Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese is just the right finishing touch.

Super yummy & seconds guaranteed!

Recipe for

WHOLE GRAIN PASTA WITH SUN DRIED TOMATOES, ROASTED RED PEPPERS & BASIL

Preparation time - 20 minutes

Cooking time - 15 minutes

Serves 4

Shopping list - 

2 medium red bell peppers

1/2 cup sun dried tomatoes

1 medium yellow onion

3 garlic cloves

5 green onions

about 1/2 cup fresh basil leaves (enough to make 1/4 cup sliced + 2 tbs for garnish)

3/4 cup grated hard, aged Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

1/4 tsp red pepper flakes

1/4 tsp ground black pepper

1/2 tsp salt

1/2 cup dry white wine

3/4 cup sour cream

1/2 cup heavy cream

1/2 cup water

2 tbs olive oil

Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese shavings, for garnish

9 oz uncooked Whole grain thin spaghetti

Water for cooking spaghetti + 1 tbs salt

Preparation

Preheat oven to 500 deg F

Red Bell Peppers - Wash, remove the top, halves and discard all membranes and seeds.  Place skin side up on a baking sheet lined with aluminum foil. Spray the foil with non-stick cooking spray before placing the peppers.

Bake for 20-25 minutes or until the skin is black & blistered. Remove from the oven. Immediately place in a zip lock bag for approx 10 minutes till the peppers have cooled and shriveled up. Remove the skin. Slice the peppers into thin slices and set aside retaining all the  juices.

Basil - Wash, separate leaves from the stem. Roll up the leaves and finely slice into thin stripes i.e. chiffonade. Do not cut basil for garnish till the very end.

Yellow Onion - Peel and thinly slice the onion. Set aside.

Green Onions - Discard root tip and leaves. Shop into thin circles.

Garlic - Peel & crush

Sun dried tomatoes - If you are using the tomatoes from a jar, remove the tomatoes from the jar. Do not use liquid.Slice the tomatoes into 1/4 strips i.e. julienne 

Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese - Grate the cheese and set aside. Do not shave slices for garnish till the very end.

Measure out and set aside the pasta, heavy cream, white wine & sour cream.

Cooking Method -

Spaghetti - Follow the directions on the pasta package and set out the water to boil with 1 tbs salt in a pasta pot. While you prepare the sauce, cook the pasta following the package directions till al dente. Drain the pasta & set aside.

In a saute pan, heat olive oil on medium heat till fuming. Add the garlic and as soon as it begins to brown in a few seconds, add the sliced onion. Saute for about 3 minutes till soft but not brown.

Add green onions, red pepper flakes, sun dried tomatoes & sliced red bell peppers. Saute for another 3 minutes or so or until the green onions have softened.

Add the wine, water, grated cheese, sour cream, heavy cream, salt, pepper & basil. Stir and heat for a couple of minutes to warm through.  Do not let it boil. Taste and adjust seasonings.

Add the cooked pasta to the sauce and toss in batches.

That way, you can control the pasta to sauce proportion.

Remove to a serving platter. Use a vegetable peeler to shave the cheese.

Garnish with thinly sliced basil leaves & Parmigiano-Reggiano shavings.

Serve Immediately.

Enjoy!

Just in Time {La Pastiera di Grana} A Traditional Wholegrain Easter Ricotta Pie from Campania, Italy

I enjoy taking every opportunity to celebrate holidays and traditions from around the world. That's something Mr. Hubby and I decided right at the onset that we would do - always celebrate the traditions of every country we lived in & live in. It's our way of reminding ourselves & our children that it truly is a small world,  full of wonder and to keep an open mind about our differences. Because our differences is what also makes it all  so very exciting.

I mean who wants to live in a world surrounded by oneself?!

So when Easter took me quite my surprise this week and I finally decided to get my act together just in time to fix something special for it, I was astounded by the variety of desserts prepared for this occasion in the various regions of Italy.

Sweet Easter Bread in Sicily, Easter Fruitcake from Trieste and this Ricotta  Pie from Campania in the Naples region.

This would be exciting in itself but it was made more so by the fact that there are variations to this centuries old recipe - some using farro, whole wheat, cracked rice & even cracked wheat.  The whole grains signify fertility for Easter.

In this version of the recipe, the textures & flavors using whole wheat berries, pine nuts, candied orange peels and orange flower water was something I couldn't resist.

I have had to start a good 24 hours earlier to baking day  as you know because  I have not been able to locate candied orange peels as these are usually sold in the US during holiday season. So I have had to make these from scratch. 

If you are in a similar predicament, you will find the post on how to make candied orange peels at home here

Also the wheat berries require a good 6-8 hours or overnight soaking. And so it was that at 10.00 PM last night I finally began fixing this pie.

Note to self - Do not start pies late at night unless you are prepared to stay up into the wee hours of the morning!...sigh...

In the kitchen with me are my favorite people when it comes to regional Italian cooking - Mario Balati (I could kiss his orange crocs!) and Nika Hazelton.  Not in person silly, their books!

I have had Hazelton's cookbook since I was about 10 years old. Picked it up from a street vendor in Mumbai and have treasured it since. She was writing books way before I was born & I really love her down to earth attitude to cooking Italian regional foods. And Thank God for Batali - for  fearlessly bringing true local regional Italian cooking (such as sea urchins)  into the main stream here in the US as in his restaurants  Lupa & Esca, NYC.

I am using Hazelton's more embellished version for the filling here but using Batali's dough thicknesses and baking times. Other than that the recipe are pretty darn similar.

There are 3 categories to this recipe:

- Filling

- Pasta Frolla, Sweet pastry dough. You will find the recipe for that here

- Assembly & weave pie crust

Off we go - first with the wheat berries.

 

Earlier in the day I soaked the wheat berries in plenty of hot water for about 6-8 hours. As the wheat berries took on water they swelled, softened and got darker. Sieve and set aside after soaking period.

   

 

In a pan, add the wheat berries, completely cover with water and bring to boil on high heat. Lower heat, cover with a tight fitting lid and cook for 30 minutes. Stirring occasionally. Sieve and set aside. The wheat berries will be softer but still have a crunch to them.

Now its time to begin with the - Pasta Frolla, Sweet pastry dough.

Because this recipe is a must in one's culinary arsenal and will be used time and time again for various other recipes, you'll find the post here

Once the spring foam pan is lined with pastry dough & is cooling in the refrigerator, begin preparing the  filling.

Preheat the oven to 350 deg F

   

Wheat berries - To the boiled wheat berries add the butter, milk & sugar. On medium-high heat bring to boil.

   

Reduce the heat to low and keep cooking the wheat berries, regularly  stirring until almost all the milk has been evaporated. When there is a little liquid in the pan and it looks like the sugar is beginning to crystallize (about 30 minutes) sieve the berries & drain away the remaining liquid.

You will be left with the milk solids & sugar mixed in with the wheat berries.

While this is cooking prepare the remaining ingredients but keep an eye on the wheat berries so it does not stick to the bottom of the pan.

 

Lemon & Orange rinds - Using a rind tool or a fine vegetable grater, grate the rind from the orange and lemons. Keep turning the fruit to avoid grating into the pith.  Grate both in the same bowl.

 

Raisins - Soak in plenty of hot water. Set aside.

 

Candied Orange peels - Place in a mini-chopper and chop till very fine. You will need about 1/2 cup finely chopped peels so do this in 2 batches if needed.

In a large mixing bowl add the ricotta, orange and lemon rinds, orange flower water & heavy cream. Using a hand immersion blender, beat the mixture till smooth.

 

Separate one egg and a time and place 1 yolk into the mixture. Beat till smooth. Then repeat with the next egg yolk. Keep going till all 4 egg yolks are incorporated.

 
 

To the blended ricotta mixture, add the pine nuts, finely chopped orange candied peels & ground cinnamon. With a rubber spatula fold till well incorporated.

 

Add the soaked raisins and fold again. Add the cooked wheat berries and fold until well incorporated.

Cook's Note - I think it is very interesting that the sugar in the pie comes by transference from the wheat berries. No sugar is directly added into the filling and it the sweetness is in perfect proportion.

 

The texture of the filling is incredible - so rich, wholesome and rustic. You just know you're dealing with a very old recipe here. So unlike the smooth fillings that we generally find nowadays. The flavors are phenomenal.

Fill the refrigerated pastry base with the filling and smooth the top with a rubber spatula. Set aside. 

To begin the woven pastry top -

   

Roll the pastry out with the refrigerated dough ball to diameter of the spring foam pan (about 11")

Place a scale in the center of the rolled pastry and using a paring knife, cut at 1" increments towards you. 

Using a pizza wheel, cut the strip all the way until the pastry is cut into 1" lengths.

Place the spring foam close to the pastry top.

 

 

 

Beginning with the pastry length at one end, lift each alternate length and place on the pie keeping the same 1" separation between the lengths.

 

Lift & fold over each alternate pastry length along its own length. Place the longest length in the center of the pie, perpendicular to the other pastry lengths as shown. Unfold the folded pastry lengths over the perpendicular lengths.

 

Now take the parallel  lengths that are running underneath the perpendicular strip and fold them back over the perpendicular strip, as shown. Lay down a second perpendicular length of dough next to the first length, with some space between the lengths. Unfold the folded parallel lengths over the second length.

 

Remember - Keep going alternating lengths till you get one half of the pie done.

Then begin working on the other side of the pie. That way you won't get confused as to which lengths to use.

 

 

Now onto the other side of the pie -

    

Continue this process until the weave is complete over the entire top. The edges will remain folded around the sides of the pan until the whole pie is done.

 

Once the weave on whole the top of the pie is complete, using a dinner knife, trim the edge of each length and press each edge down into the pie base (so the two pastry's meet & join)

 

This is what it looks like once the weave & trimming is complete

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Beat some of the left over egg whites.

  

With a pastry brush, gently smudge the egg while over the weave till the whole weave has an egg wash. Do not use long strokes all over the pie. Restrict the egg wash over the weave only.

Bake in pre-heated oven for 55-60 minutes until the top is beautiful golden brown. Detach the spring foam pan sides and allow to cool.

Loving the weave!

The texture in this pie is incredible. The first scent that hit us when we cut into it was the scent of oranges. The  textures with the whole grains is wonderful nestled in the sweetened ricotta. The pastry is flaky and with every bite the entire spectrum of flavors come together. This is not an oozing pie but firm & rich. Very old world indeed!

As we were having this after lunch, I looked out and saw the  orange blossom trees in full bloom and I realized that the people who originally created this pie had done something quite remarkable - they had managed to capture the essence of spring in a dish!

Don't you want a piece of that?

Recipe for

{La Pastiera di Grana} A Traditional Wholegrain Easter Ricotta Pie from Campania, Italy 

Grain soaking time - 8 hours or overnight

Preparation time - 1-1/2 hours

Cooking time - 1 hour

Makes 1 # 11" double crust pie

Shopping list

1 cup wheat berries

water to soak & boil wheat

1 cup milk

3/4 cup granulated sugar

2 cups (1 lb) fresh ricotta cheese

2 tbs heavy cream

1 orange (rind)

2 lemons (rind)

1/4 cup orange flower water

4 egg yolks

1/2 cup pine nuts

1/2 cup raisins

1/2 cup full  finely chopped candied orange peels

1 recipe for double crust sweet pastry - Pasta Frolla

1/4 tsp ground cinnamon

2 egg whites beaten - for wash

Preparation -

Wheat berries -  Soaked the wheat berries in plenty of hot water for about 6-8 hours or overnight.  Sieve and set aside after soaking period.

In a pan, add the wheat berries, completely cover with water and bring to boil on high heat. Lower heat, cover with a tight fitting lid and cook for 30 minutes. Stirring occasionally. Sieve and set aside. The wheat berries will be softer but still have a crunch to them.

Pasta Frolla, Sweet pastry dough - Begin with this recipe here 

Return to the wheat berries - To the boiled wheat berries add the butter, milk & sugar. On medoum-high heat bring to boil.

Reduce the heat to low and keep cooking the wheat berries, regularly  stirring until almost all the milk has been evaporated. When there is a little liquid in the pan and it looks like the sugar is beginning to crystallize (about 30 minutes) sieve the berries & drain away the remaining liquid.

You will left with the milk solids & sugar mixed in with the wheat berries.

While this is cooking prepare the remaining ingredients but keep an eye on the wheat berries so it does not stick to the bottom of the pan.

Lemon & Orange rinds - Using a rind tool or a fine vegetable grater, grate the rind. Keep turning the fruit to avoid grating into the pith. 

Raisins - Soak in plenty of hot water. Set aside.

Candied Orange peels - Place in a mini-chopper and chop till very fine. You will need about 1/2 cup finely chopped peels so do this in 2 batches if needed.

Filling - 

Preheat the oven to 350 deg F

In a large mixing bowl add the ricotta, orange and lemon rinds, orange flower water & heavy cream. Using a hand immersion blender, beat the mixture till smooth.

Separate one egg and a time and place 1 yolk into the mixture. Beat till smooth. Then repreat with the next egg yolk. Keep going till all 4 egg yolks are  incorporated so.

To the blended ricotta mixture, add the pine nuts, finely chopped orange candied peels & ground cinnamon. With a rubber spatula fold till well incorporated.

Add the soaked raisins and fold again. Add the cooked wheat berries and fold until well incorporated.

Fill the refrigerated pastry base with the filling and smooth the top with a rubber spatula. Set aside. 

Begin to weave pastry top -

Roll the pastry out with the refrigerated dough ball to diameter of the spring foam pan (about 11")

Place a scale in the center of the rolled pastry and using a paring knife, cut at 1" increments towards you. 

Using a pizza wheel, cut the strip all the way until the pastry is cut into 1" lengths.

Place the spring foam close to the pastry top.

Beginning with the pastry length at one end, lift each alternate length and place on the pie keeping the same 1" separation between the lengths.

Lift & fold over each alternate pastry length along its own length. Place the longest length in the center of the pie, perpendicular to the other pastry lengths as shown. Unfold the folded strips over the perpendicular strip.

Now take the parallel  lengths that are running underneath the perpendicular strip and fold them back over the perpendicular strip, as shown. Lay down a second perpendicular length of dough next to the first length, with some space between the lengths. Unfold the folded parallel lengths over the second length.

Remember - Keep going alternating lengths till you get one half of the pie done.

Then begin working on the other side of the pie. That way you won't get confused as to which length to use.

Continue this process until the weave is complete over the top of the pie. The edges will remain folded around the sides of the pan until the weave over the whole pie is complete.

Once the weave on whole the top of the pie is complete, using a dinner knife, trim the edge of each length and press each edge down into the pie base (so the two pastry's meet & join)

With a pastry brush, gently smudge the egg while over the weave till the whole weave has an egg wash. Do not use long strokes all over the pie. Restrict the egg wash over the weave only.

Baking the pie -

Bake in pre-heated oven for 55-60 minutes until the top is beautiful golden brown.

Detach the spring foam pan sides and allow to cool. Slice into wedges and serve warm or at room temperature. Not chilled.

Enjoy!

No fear, No fail - Sweet pastry a.k.a Short crust pastry {Pate Sucree, Pasta Frolla}

Making your first pie pastry, sugar or otherwise is a lot like going scuba diving for the first time.

My first experience scuba diving was at the Great Barrier Reefs. I was so excited, it was something I had wanted to do a long time and couldn't wait. Have spent hours on the boat from Cairns to finally be able to go diving, to see all that coral up close. Wow!

So with the help of the PADI instructors I get all geared up - they ask me to lower myself into the water and I start breathing through the mouth thingy and the minute I hit the water, I pull out my mouth thingy and start trying to breathe through my nose - underwater. Needless to say - it didn't work, I panicked and I almost gave up.

Then my PADI instructor said something that stayed with me all these years - he said, "If you give up now, you'll never forgive yourself and you'll never forget it. Diving is all about the mind. Stay in the water, hold on to the side of the boat and talk to yourself till you get comfortable and try again"

I am very glad I did - because there is NOTHING and I mean NOTHING compared to being down on the ocean floor holding your first sea cucumber (and your last) or putting your hand in the mouth of a giant clam.

So no matter what your experience baking your first pie pastry has been, its time to strap on your diving equipment, try again and succeed! Having said that - check your diving equipment i.e. your recipe.

Which is why - you won't find a gazillion variations of tart pastry or sweet pastry dough on this blog - nope just 2 - one for fruit tarts and one for quiches. Why? because the only recipes that matters are the ones that don't let you down the night before Thanksgiving when you've been at it for 3 hours and its already 11.00pm and you've tried everything to fix this pastry mess and you can't - it still won't work so, you start over ...... not funny and plays havoc with your confidence (yup - I know, been there-done that).

The difference between the 2 tart pastries is that one is made with butter & sugar which makes it a little crusty and flaky (which I think is wonderful for grilled fruit tarts) and other with lard and salt which is very flaky and wonderful for quiches).

Today's sweet pastry dough is the first step towards a Easter Ricotta pie. Yum!

In a food processor fitted with a metal blade, add all-purpose flour, cold butter (from refrigerator) cut into 8 slabs, 1 tbs sugar, egg yolks and 2 tbs chilled (from refrigerator) water.

Pulse for upto 25 seconds till a ball has formed. If in 25 seconds the mix is still crumbly & a dough ball has not formed, add 1/2 tbs chilled water and knead again for 25 seconds till a dough ball has formed.

Transfer the dough ball to a lightly floured surface and using the heel of your palms, knead the dough 3-4 times. This process is called fraisage and gives that wonderful flaky crust we all crave.

Flatten dough ball between palms, lightly flour the surface, wrap it in cling wrap and refrigerate for 10-15 minutes till it is cold (this will make it easier to roll out) Remove from the refrigerator, discard the cling wrap and sprinkle with 1 tbs flour.

For a double pie crust, divide the dough into 2 parts - one slightly larger than the other.

Return the smaller pie dough ball to the refrigerator.

Begin working on the larger dough ball.

Begin to roll out the pastry. Using a rolling pin, apply light pressure while rolling outwards from the center of the dough.

Every once in a while you may need to gently lift under the dough with your fingers to make sure it is not sticking. Also, turn the pastry a quarter turn every once in a while so it is rolling out uniformly. As the edges fray, pinch with finger and continue rolling.

Once in a while place the baking pan (spring foam or tart pan) to make sure you've rolling a large enough pastry:

If you are using a spring foam pan (like I am) you will need a pastry 1-1/2" large than the diameter of the base.

If you are using a tart pan (preferably one with a pop-up bottom) roll 2-1/4" larger than the diameter of the bottom.

Lift the pastry off the bottom and wrap around the rolling pin. Pull the spring foam/tart pan closer to you and drape the pastry over it as best you can.

OR

If the pie crust seems a little too fragile to lift off or if you're getting the jitters, try this fool proof method -

Separate the sides of the spring foam pan from the base. Place the over the rolled crust just to make sure your have an idea of the center. Gently life the polled crust and insert the base under the rolled crust.

Fold the sides on the pastry into the base. Attach the sides and lift the sides up.

Adjust the pastry so it is more or less in the center of the pan. Mold the pastry to the sides of the pan.

Using 2 fingers gently press the sides of the pastry to the sides of the pan. Using a knife, trim the edges of the pastry in straight line.

Now that the pastry is sitting pretty in the pan (don't fret it'll be fine)

Refrigerate while preparing the filling and you are ready for the next step.

Cook's Note - I want to draw your attention to the fact that I have used only 1-2 tbs sugar (not 3/4 cups as some recipes call for) - this is very important point - the more sugar you put in the pastry the harder the handling because softer the dough which is why most of us have had our share of pastry disaster stories.

Recipe for

Pate Sucree, Pasta Frolla, Sweet Pastry dough

Makes a double layer pie crust (11")

Shopping list

2-1/2 cup all-purpose flour

2 stick (115 gms) cold butter, unsalted

2 egg

1/4 tsp salt

about 3-4 tbs ice cold water

2 tbs sugar

OR

Makes 1 single layer tart (11")

Shopping list

1-1/3 cup all-purpose flour

1 stick (115 gms) cold butter, unsalted

1 egg

1/8 tsp salt

1-1/2 tbs to 2 tbs ice cold water

1 tbs sugar

Preparation

Dough -

In a food processor fitted with a metal blade, add all-purpose flour, cold butter (from refrigerator) cut into 8 slabs, 1 tbs sugar, egg yolks and 2 tbs chilled (from refrigerator) water.

Knead for 25 seconds till a ball has formed. If in 25 seconds the mix is still crumbly & a dough ball has not formed, add 1/2 tbs chilled water and knead again for 25 seconds till a dough ball has formed.

Flatten dough ball between palms, wrap it in cling wrap and refrigerate for 10-15 minutes till it is cold (this will make it easier to roll out) Remove from the refrigerator, discard the cling wrap and sprinkle with 1 tbs flour.

For a double pie crust, divide the dough into 2 parts - one slightly larger than the other. Return the smaller pie dough ball to the refrigerator.

Begin to roll out the pastry. Using a rolling pin, apply light pressure while rolling outwards from the center of the dough.

Every once in a while you may need to gently lift under the dough with your fingers to make sure it is not sticking. Also, turn the pastry a quarter turn every once in a while so it is rolling out uniformly. As the edges fray, pinch with finger and continue rolling.

Once in a while place the baking pan (spring foam or tart pan) to make sure you've rolling a large enough pastry:

If you are using a spring foam pan (like I am) you will need a pastry 1-1/2" large than the diameter of the base.

If you are using a tart pan (preferably one with a pop-up bottom) roll 2-1/4" larger than the diameter of the bottom.

Lift the pastry off the bottom and wrap around the rolling pin. Pull the spring foam/tart pan closer to you and drape the pastry over it as best you can.

OR

If the pie crust seems a little too fragile to lift off or if you're getting the jitters, try this fool proof method -

Separate the sides of the spring foam pan from the base. Place the over the rolled crust just to make sure your have an idea of the center. Gently life the polled crust and insert the base under the rolled crust.

Fold the sides on the pastry into the base. Attach the sides and lift the sides up to adhere to the sides of the pan.

Adjust the pastry so it is more or less in the center of the pan. Mold the pastry to the sides of the pan.

Mold the pastry to the sides of the pan.

Using 2 fingers gently press the sides of the pastry to the sides of the pan. Using a knife, trim the edges of the pastry in straight line. If using a tart pan, trim the edges using the edge of the tart pan as a guide.

The sugar pastry tart is now ready for the next step. Refrigerate while preparing the filling.

On the subject of an Excellent Marinara Sauce

Marinara sauce is surely one of the culinary pillars of the home kitchen.  Though its origins lie on the shores of Italy, it has naturally developed into a mainstay for most western cuisines. 

We all have our own personalized family version of Marinara sauce buried in our recipe collections. These made all the more special by the stained, scratched out, tattered and dog-eared pages passed down from one generation to the next.

There is a wonderful tradition followed by our friends Carl and Michael in Sydney, Australia. Carl's family immigrated to Australia from Sicily many decades ago and this time of year, the entire family, kid's and all, descend upon his mother's kitchen in the wee hours of the morning.

The entire day is spent preparing pounds and pounds of fresh tomatoes to be canned with fresh basil,  as a foundation for sauces,  to last the entire year for the whole family!

Doesn't that sound absolutely fascinating?

I can't wait to do a  feature on this wonderful tradition that takes place over the next couple of weeks. So please be on the look out for it!

Traditionally, marinara sauce by definition is made with tomatoes, onions, and herbs. It has a fascinating history originating with the sailors in Naples in the 16th century, after the Spaniards introduced the tomato to their neighboring countries.

It was particularly appealing to the cooks on board sailing ships, because the high acid content of the tomatoes resulted in a sauce which would not easily spoil before the advent of modern refrigeration techniques.

Isn't that neat? - that if it weren't for the lack of technology (for a change)  Marinara sauce might have never seen the light of day!

I usually make my marinara sauce when I fix my 'melt-in the-mouth' meatballs recipe so the star of my recipe are the pan drippings from the meatballs. (Refer to  the post - On the subject of Excellent Meatballs)

However, even when prepared without the pan drippings for a seafood marinara or a Lasagna, it is still wonderful and rich because of the long hours that it is slow cooked in its own juices with fennel and other spices.

We begin by doing a grocery run or raiding the pantry cabinet and pulling out 3 kinds of  canned tomatoes - a can crushed tomatoes, diced tomatoes and tomato sauce.

Next we prepare the ingredients -

 

Onions - Peel & chop. Set aside

Garlic - Peel, discard skin & chop

Fennel seeds - Crush the fennel seeds in a coffee grinder for just a pulse or two or use a mortar & pestle.

Spices & Seasonings -  Gather the seasonings in a bowl, ready to use. Measure out the  salt, sugar, dried parsley flakes, crushed red pepper flakes, Italian seasoning, turmeric and dried basil.

 

On medium high heat, in a saute pan,  heat the olive oil. Add the chopped onions, chopped garlic and fennel seeds. Saute till the onions are soft and just golden brown. 

Open canned tomatoes with a can opener and empty contents into the sauteed onions. Add the spices & seasonings.  Stir and allow to simmer, bringing the heat down to medium.

 

If you are going to prepare Meatballs with Marinara sauce and stored the pan drippings from the baked meatballs, then pour the drippings into the marinara sauce.

The drippings will have some solids so give the sauce a good stir with a whisk to break these down.

 

Bring the sauce to a good simmer and cover with a tight lid. Lower the flame to very low. Cook the sauce  for 30-45 minutes, stirring every 15 minutes. Taste and adjust seasonings.

Cooks Note- The sauce as it stands is quite chunky which is fine if that's the way you like it but I like my sauce somewhere between chunky and smooth. So, I give it a 30 seconds pulse with an electric hand blender.

At this point it is ready for the slow cooker. Add the meatballs to the slow cooker if you are fixing Meatballs with Marinara sauce. Cook for 3-4 hours on the lowest setting.

I served the Meatballs & Marinara sauce over spaghetti cooked al-dente and a garden salad.  

What a fantastic dinner this turned out to be - with loads of freshly grated aged Parmigiana Reggiano cheese on top, fresh crusty bread and a glass of Pinot Noir.

The meatballs were moist, and a flavor explosion with every bite. The spaghetti was cooked to perfection and the sauce...well it truly was spoon licking good!

Refer to the post - On the subject of Excellent Meatballs to go with this equally excellent Marinara sauce!

Cin Cin!

Recipe for

EXCELLENT MARINARA SAUCE

Serves 4

Shopping list

1 # 28 oz can crushed Tomatoes

1 # 14.5 oz can diced Tomatoes                       

1# 8 oz can Tomato sauce

1 cup finely chopped Onions

2 tbs fresh chopped Garlic

1 tsp crushed Fennel seeds

1/2 tsp Turmeric

1/2 tsp dried Italian seasoning

1 tbs dried Parsley flakes

1 tbs dried Basil

1/2 tsp Sugar

1/2 tsp Salt

1/2 tsp red pepper flakes

Grated Parmesan cheese for garnish

Meatball pan drippings (if applicable)

Cooking method -

On medium high heat, in a saute pan,  heat the olive oil. Add the chopped onions, chopped garlic and fennel seeds. Saute till the onions are soft and just golden brown. 

Add all the tomatoes to the sauteed onions. Add the spices, salt, sugar, dried parsley flakes, crushed red pepper flakes, Italian seasoning, Turmeric and dried Basil. Stir and allow to simmer, bringing the heat down to medium.

Add stored the pan drippings from the baked meatballs (if applicable), give the sauce a good stir with a whisk.

Bring the sauce to a good simmer and cover with a tight lid. Lower the flame to very low.

Cook the sauce  for 30-45 minutes, stirring every 15 minutes. Taste and adjust seasonings.

Cooks Note- If the sauce is too chunky for your liking, give it a 30 seconds whir with an electric hand blender.

Add the meatballs (if applicable) and the marinara sauce to the slow cooker. Cook for 3-4 hours on the lowest setting.

Enjoy with spaghetti cooked al dente or incorporate in your favorite recipe.

Do you have a favorite Marinara sauce family recipe or a story you would like to share with us? If so please let us know about it in the comments.We would love to hear from you!