Weave a Thousand Flavors

Bengali Style ~ Tomato & Date Chutney

 

Whether it's birthdays, festivals, potlucks or religious functions, no Bengali spread is ever complete without this incredibly flavorful chutney.

This recipe is handed down to me by my mother-in-law and if you've been reading this blog for any length of time, you know I tend to brag about her incredible cooking skills.

I love that she is so dedicated with true and tried traditional methods of cooking and with every incredible bite you know that it comes from a hand that has been doing this for so very long in honor of time honored culinary traditions.

Like so many traditional cuisines of India, Bengali cuisine is over a 1000 years old which is mind boggling when you think about how many generations have passed down these recipes from mother to daughter or mother to son and if you're lucky, like me, mother-in-law to daughter-in-law.

This chutney, redolent with the scent of spices is laden with fresh tomatoes, succulent dates, plum raisins, jaggery or brown sugar and roasted ground cumin.

Eaten as the final transition between savory and dessert, it's a hot-spicy-sweet palate cleanser that as far as culinary transitions go, is top-notch.

Indian Pantry Essential ~ Homemade Garam Masala

Garam masala is used extensively in North Indian and Pakistan cuisine is a spice blend that is as organic as it is singular. Garam masala ~  garam (hot) and masala (spices) is a blend of whole spices that are roasted and ground to a powder.

A spice blend that is fragrant and pungent and hence the term 'garam' here refers not to heat i.e. capsaicin content but rather to the intensity of the spices as they come together.

I consider it organic because it is a recipe that has evolved with each family.

Though varied in composition of spices and each family uses its own signature recipe its foundation remains intact. It is not unheard of that in some family recipe as many as 36 whole spices are used to blend their garam masala.

In mine we tend to stay with the masala in its classic form - coriander seeds, cumin seeds, whole cardamom pods, whole dried kashmiri red chillies, cinnamon sticks, cloves & black pepper corns.

I do add a bit of fennel seeds in mine though my mother does not and I know others who substitute it with nutmeg.

Tweak to your heart's content but know this, store bought garam masala can never come close to homemade and since it can last fragrant for up to a year if refrigerated in an airtight container, now there's simply no excuse to grind up some of your own.

And don't forget - a little goes a long way!

Dum Aloo ~ Simply Spiced Baby Potatoes from India

When baby red potato globes grace my supermarket bins in large mounds, it invariably means that Dum Aloo is about to make an appearance on the dinner or brunch table.

Dum Aloo is yet another example of how simple kitchen staples from Kashmir and North-India have been mostly over-done, over-spiced and over-creamed to point beyond recognition.

It is also the reason why I hold traditional cooks like my mother, my mother-in-law and my grand-mother who hold on to authentic recipes with hoops of steel in such esteem and reverence. I think they represent a dying breed - the last of the stalwarts who continue to carry forward recipes of their mothers and grandmothers resolute against tv-chef-doms that seems to be changing the face of traditional Indian cuisine into cream based-tomato paste versions of everything.

It therefore is startling when at a dinner party the one thing that gets rave reviews and numerous recipe requests are these potatoes from my mother-in-law's kitchen. So simple is this recipe that when I recite it in person, it is looked upon with disbelief.

A sense of - "how is it possible, that some thing so simple tastes this good? surely she's holding out on us".

Except that I am not.

It far more difficult to cook simply, to be simple and there-in lies true art.

Happy Deepavali & 'Channar Jilipi' in Celebration : Khoya & Ricotta Spirals in Saffron Nectar

 

People,  Meet Channar Jilipi ~ Gulab Jamuns with a college education.

The first time I met Mr. Hubby's extended family over a decade ago, they all asked me if I had ever eaten my Mother-in-law's Channar Jilipi for which she holds the unrivaled reputation of making, like no other. 

 
While the Gulab Jamun, is its dumpy brother Channar Jilipi is its feminine reinvention. Sporting slender curves and incredibly delicate, Channar Jilipi is bound to give Gulab Jamuns a complex! 

At it's best, both have a heart that is soft with a melt-in-your-mouth center that is bursting with intensely flavored syrup as you bite into it. Alas, more often than not, most end up a hard 'rock' at its core. And that dearies is what separates the novices from the whiz'.

So when my mother-in-law affectionately, Ma was visiting for a few weeks this summer (and since we both share the same passion for good cooking and food) we decided to put our heads together and make Channar Jilipi. The basis of the partnership was simple, she teach - I learn, with two notable and from what I understand, ground breaking differences.

I convinced Ma that we should skip the boring old, 'add lemon to curdle the milk' step and instead reach for store-bought Ricotta in the refrigerator aisle. Gasp! Well why not? That's exactly how Ricotta is made and imagine skipping such a tedious step for the modern kitchen (if it worked that is)

Dubious she was indeed but what a good sport and agreed to give it a go. Just when she'd come to terms with this, I suggested we get rid of good old fashioned kneading and use the food processor. Now we were both really nervous but ventured on, brave faced and all.

Enter, Ma - you must understand, the pillar of Indian kitchen is 'andaaza' - don't bother asking our Mums for recipes, they don't have one. They do everything by proportion and then a splash of this and a dash of that i.e. 'andaaza'. The proportion is critical and you never mess with it. I am quite used to my own Mum and grandma exchange recipes in the form of 1:7 - butter : flour. Sorta reminds me of mixing cement, same concept, 1:3:4 just in case you wanted to know.

To make these spiral lovelies, one essentially needs equal parts of khoya : Ricotta to which is added a smidgen of flour and other flavor adding ingredients such as cardamom seeds and sugar.

So where to buy Khoya?

Khoya which is essentially reduced milk to its solid/thickened form, is sold as a 'brick' in Indian-Pakistani grocery stores, in the refrigerated section and is essential to this recipe. Ricotta is available in regular grocery stores.

Channar Jilipi are heavily in demand in Bengal while Gulab Jamun, its globular brother is made all over India, especially during Deepavali - the festival of lights seeing how you too are going to fall madly in love with these sweet, curvy delights!  

Nothing like Homemade Ghee

 
We had some acquaintances over to dinner the other night. They are some friends of friends and we had only met them a couple of times at community gathering events. They had heard of my cooking skills (not shy am I?) and they wanted some authentic home cooked Indian grub. So we invited them.

One of the ladies saw that I was using ghee and she started talking to the other women about how she picked up a bottle of fragrant ghee at this high end organic foods store (for something like 8 or 9 bucks). Now no offense,  but I have experienced some of these ready made ghee's available in  the high end markets and all I can say is - close but no cigar!

I realized as I was stirring the dal that as long as one can get their hands on sweet cream butter (I bought 2 lbs on sale at 1.59/lb just to make ghee)  and stir a pot, you can get the most awesome, liquid, golden ghee in 45 minutes flat, for one-thirds the cost and double the quantity!

Now for those of you unfamiliar with ghee, it is also known as clarified butter and it is fantastic in  rice dishes, Indian cooking and makes a mean steak au poivre to tow -- you think I'm kidding - try it and see for yourself.

I cook my steak with nothing but - and here's why. It has a much higher burning point, than  butter and I think of it as the 'clean fuel of cooking fat'. Good term, eh?

It has no strong discernible flavor so you can use it in just about anything - roasted veggies, roasted potatoes (to die for) and almost all Indian cooking - for which olive oil has too strong a flavor and scent. Do you what my favorite food in ghee is? Fried eggs! Yummy!

Mrs Das' Macher Kalia - A Bengali Fish delicacy In a Gravy with Aromatic Spices

 

There is nothing quite the likes of a fish market in India.

The sheer energy of the place with mounds and mounds of the freshest fish, countless varieties, the smells and the shouts of the men and women with their pruned white hands as they wave and shout to draw your attention - to get you to look at an amazing cut of fish is a fantastic experience in itself.

 

And yet among all of India's cultures and states and coastal towns it well accepted  that the people of West Bengal (and Bangladesh)  really know their fish!

I should know. I am married to one!

Now my mother-in-law just happens to be an ace talent in the kitchen herself. You only have  to be in  her presence as she gently works around the kitchen cooking a fish dish of one variety or the other, as she has done so for the last 40 odd years and you know that now's the time to observe and learn.

And I have done so and yet I may be many strides away from being as good as the author of this dish. So I  humbly bring you Mrs. Das' Macher Kalia.  

We begin by selecting a white firm fish such as shown here - grass carp steaks, traditional 'rui' or 'rohu'. You can use boneless grass carp or Tilapia fillets if you prefer. 

Carp is quite easily available at Asian markets here in the US where they have an extensive fresh fish collection.

 

I have used grass carp steaks cut down the middle and sliced 1/2" thick. First we marinate the fish with salt and turmeric powder. 

Onions - Next finely chop a large onion and the garlic cloves.

Tomatoes - Chop the tomatoes and set aside

Peas - Remove a 1/4 cup frozen peas from the freezer and set side.

Potatoes - Peel and wash the potatoes. Cut in 1/4" thick slices and set aside in a bowl of water so they do not brown.

Garlic - Peel and crush

Cilantro - Wash and chop. Immerse in a bowl of water till ready to use. Any soil or dirt will settle to the bottom of the bowl.

Bengali garam masala powder - Roast the spices ( cardamom pods, cinnamon bark & cloves) on medium heat till the sent of spices fill the air for about 30 seconds - a minute. Remove to a bowl and allow to cool for 10 minutes. Grind to a powder in a coffee grinder. Set aside.
  

 
 

  

  In a non-stick frying pan heat 1/2 cup of oil and heat on medium high flame till it is very hot. When you drop the first piece of fish in it should sizzle immediately.

Fry for approx 2 minutes per side till is crisp and brown on both sides. I use a pair of tongs or a fork to gently turn over.

Continue above method till all the fish has been cooked. Remove to a bowl and set aside.

Cooks Note - Do not fry  more than 2 pieces of fish at a time or the fish will not cook crisp like you need it to. 

Also, as when deep frying all foods the hot oil will splatter so once you drop the fish into the oil step back from the stove so you do not get hot oil splatter all over you.

 

 

In a separate saute pan or 'kadhai', take some the oil used for frying the fish .  Keep on medium heat. Add the crushed garlic and onions and saute till soft and golden brown.

 

 

   

   

 

Now add the chopped tomatoes, salt, turmeric powder and red chilly powder. Saute for a few minutes on medium flame till tomatoes begin to soften approx 3-4 minutes.

Add the whole cardamom, sliced potatoes and 2 cups water. Once the liquid comes to a boil, cover with a tight lid and simmer. Keep at medium heat and simmer for approx 10 minutes till the potatoes are cooked.

Cooks Note - If you are going to sit down to eat right after preparing this dish then the 2 cups of water is fine. If you are going preparing the fish earlier in the day to be eaten at dinner for example then increase water to 2 - 1/2 cups. This is because as it sits some of the liquid will be absorbed  and you want enough of a gravy to go with the steamed rice. 

Taste and adjust seasonings. Add the fish gently to the gravy and spoon the gravy onto the fish. Now add the peas, sprinkle with Bengali garam masala powder and top with 1 tsp 'ghee'.

Cover with a lid and on medium high heat continue to simmer for the next 5 minutes.  Remove from heat and serve hot with steamed rice. You may garnish with chopped coriander leaves.

This is an intensely flavored dish with the rich gravy, the sprinkle of ground aromatic spices and crispy  texture of the fish.

We love it served on rice and is a true example of comfort food for us in our family. I hope you'll give it a go & it delights you as much as it does us!

 

Recipe for  
 

 

MACHER KALIA - A Bengali fish curry cooked in a lightly spiced gravy of onions and tomatoes

Serves 4

Shopping list 

2 lbs Grass Carp or Tilapia steaks/ fillets

4 Garlic cloves, peeled and crushed                             

1 large chopped Onion

1/2 diced Tomato

3 medium Potatoes

1/4 cup fresh or frozen Peas (optional)

1/4 tsp Salt 

1/2 tsp red chilly powder

1/4 tsp Turmeric Powder

4 whole Cardamom pods

1/2 cup Vegetable Oil for frying  (4 tbs of this oil to be used for gravy)

1 tsp 'ghee'

2 - 2 1/2 cups water

½ cup plain yogurt (optional)

1-1/2 tbs poppy seeds (optional)

1/4 cup chopped Cilantro leaves (optional)

Bengali Gram Masala -

2 cardamom pods

1/2" cinnamon bark

2 cloves

For Marinade:

1/2 tbs  salt

1 tsp Turmeric Powder

Preparation

Fish: Marinate the fish with salt and turmeric powder.

Poppy seeds: Soak in boiling hot water till needed.

Garlic cloves -  peeled, crush and chop 

Onion - Finely chop a large onion

Tomato - Wash and dice. Leave skin on.

Potatoes - Peel and slice in 1/4" thick slices. Immerse in a bowl of water till ready to use.

Cilantro - Wash and chop. Immerse in a bowl of water till ready to use. Any soil or dirt will settle to the bottom of the bowl.

Bengali Garam Masala - Roast the spices on medium heat till the sent of spices fill the air for about 30 seconds - a minute. Remove to a bowl and allow to cool for 10 minutes. Grind to a powder in a coffee grinder. Set aside.

Cooking Method

In a non-stick frying pan heat 1/2 cup of oil and heat on medium high flame till it is very hot. When you drop the first piece of fish in it should sizzle immediately. Fry for approx 2 minutes per side till is crisp and brown on both sides.  Continue till all the fish has been cooked. Remove to a plate and set aside. Set aside 4 tbs of the oil.  Store the remaining oil once completely cool for future use.

Do not fry  more than 2 pieces of fish at a time or the fish will not cook crisp like we want it to. 

In a separate large saute pan with a lid or 'kadhai', take 4 tbs of the oil used to fry the fish. On medium heat, add the crushed garlic and onions and saute till soft and golden brown.

Now add the chopped tomatoes, salt, turmeric powder and red chilly powder. Saute for a few minutes on medium flame till tomatoes begin to soften approx 3-4 minutes.

Add the whole cardamom, sliced potatoes and 2 cups water. Once the liquid comes to a boil, cover with a tight lid and simmer. Keep at medium heat and simmer for approx 10 minutes or until the potatoes are cooked.

If using, while the potatoes are cooking, sieve the poppy seeds discarding the water. Place in a small blending/food processor jar and pulverize. Add the yogurt and continue to blend to a fine paste. Add the yogurt-poppy seeds paste to the potatoes. Stir to combine. Simmer for 1-2 minutes.

Taste and adjust seasonings. Add the fish gently to the gravy and spoon the gravy onto the fish. Now add the peas, sprinkle Bengali garam masala powder and top with 1 tsp 'ghee'. Cover with a lid and on medium high heat continue to simmer for the next 5 minutes. Garnish with chopped coriander leaves.

Serve hot with steamed rice.

Enjoy!

 

 

 

 

Lau Chingri - A Bengali style Vegetable with Bottle Gourd & Shrimp

 

This is the story of a bottle gourd also known as calabash gourd & doodhi, lauki, lau, opu in different languages world over.

Though it sits among its brethren in tubs labeled Opu in most Asian stores, in its natural surroundings it hangs from a vine. It doesn't know it but it has a wonderful delicate nutty flavor and absorbs beautifully the flavors of the surrounding gravy & spices.

Fortunately we do! And one of my absolute favorite ways of eating this is my mother-in-law's style which is Lau Chingri translated simply into bottle gourd with shrimp.

Besides being delicous, it is incredibly low in calories. 4 oz bottle gourd has only 15 calories. Since I am constantly battling the insanity of my weight, we try to eat this weekly.  

In Ayurveda, its natural properties are also known to help lowering lipids as well as cholesterol in the blood.

It's providence that my mother-In-law is an ace cook and a gentle soul who when she visits, patiently tutored me in the art of authentic Bengali cuisine over the years.

The 2 pillars of the Bengali kitchen are:

1) Panch phoron - a mix of 5 whole spices in equal quantities - mustard seeds, fenugreek seeds, fennel seeds, cumin seeds & nigella or onion seeds &  

2) Mustard oil - intensely flavorful it resonates through the dish with its pungent flavor and fragrance. Absolutely essential in Bengali cooking and severely underestimated and under used in other cuisines the world over.

The panch phoron can be easily mixed at home or purchased ready made at an Indo-Pak store.

The mustard oil is easily purchased at Indo-pak stores for a few bucks. 

The main ingredients for required are -  medium sized fresh raw shrimp (de-veined & peeled), bottle gourd, panch phoron spices, whole red dried chillies (kashmiri chillies), turmeric powder, red chilly powder, sugar, salt, vegetable oil & mustard oil.

Prepare the ingredients -

Bottle gourd -  Peel the gourd and cut off from both ends. Cut into 1-1/2" length circles.  Cut all the gourd circles into 1/4" thick matchsticks by cutting lengthwise and then perpendicular - like you would for french fries.  

Shrimp - To the de-veined and peeled raw shrimp, add  3/4 tsp salt and 1/2 tsp turmeric powder. With clean hands, mix well and set aside.

In a saute pan, add vegetable oil. Heat for a minute or so till hot. Add the shrimp and on medium heat saute till it is half cooked.   

The shrimp will have turned pink but will still have some raw parts. Remove to a bowl and set aside.Do not overcook or they will turn rubbery. Leave the remaining oil in the pan.

To the same pan, add 1 tbs oil and heat for about 30 seconds. Add the panch phoron whole spices, kashmiri whole red chillies and cardamom pods. 

Allow the spices to crackle for a few seconds and once they begin to turn a slight golden brown, quickly add the bottle gourd matchsticks & stir immediately. 

Add 1 tsp salt & 1/4 tsp turmeric & stir. Add no water. On low heat, cover with a tight lid & cook till the gourd is soft for about 20-30 minutes.

Especially taste some of the pieces along the outer skin  since these will be tougher than the pieces in the middle. 

Once the gourd is cooked it will shrink considerably and release its moisture so the vegetable will be quite watery. Add turmeric powder, red chilly powder, sugar and stir.

Cook's Note - You can add 1-1/2 packet splenda instead of the sugar if you wish. 

Increase to medium-high heat & continue stirring on till all water most absorbed and quite dry. Taste & adjust seasoning.  The vegetable has to have a decided hint of sweet so the quantity of sugar required is not a typo and adjust accordingly.

Add the shrimp, stir and remove from heat. It will finish cooking in the steam from the vegetable. 

To serve sprinkle with chopped cilantro leaves & pour mustard oil on top. Serve with steamed rice or rotis or chapattis.

 

The subtle delicate flavors of the bottle gourd pairs really well with the shrimp. The whole spices lend a variety and burst of flavor with every bite. The hint of sweetness & heat brings all the flavors together in unison.

This is such a delicious meal and I've cooked it on weeknights when I'm in a hurry as well at dinner parties. It's a hit either way!

 

Recipe for

Lau Chingri - A Bengali style Vegetable with Bottle Gourd & Shrimp

Preparation time - 15 minutes 

Cooking time - 15 minutes

Serves 4

Shopping list

1 large bottle gourd (calabash), doodhi  

1/2 lb & deveined shrimp 

1-1/2 tsp panch-phoron  spices 

2 tsp sugar 

2 bay leaf

3 kasmiri red chilli - torn into 2 parts & seeded

3 whole cardamom

3/4 tsp ground turmeric

1 tsp red chilly powder

1 tsp mustard oil

2 tbs vegetable oil

To marinate shrimp:

1/2 tsp ground turmeric

1/2 tsp salt

Preparation:

Bottle gourd -  Peel the gourd and cut off from both ends. Cut into 1-1/2" length circles.Cut all the gourd circles into 1/4" thick matchsticks by cutting lengthwise and then perpendicular - like you would for french fries.

Shrimp - To the de-veined and peeled raw shrimp, add  3/4 tsp salt and 1/2 tsp turmeric powder. With clean hands, mix well and set aside.

Method:

In a saute pan, add vegetable oil. Heat for a minute or so till hot.

Add the shrimp and on medium heat saute till it is half cooked. 

Good to know: The shrimp will have turned pink but will still have some raw gray portions. Remove to a bowl and set aside. Do not overcook or they will turn rubbery. Leave the remaining oil in the pan.

To the same pan, add 1 tbs oil and heat for about 30 seconds. Add the panch phoron whole spices, kashmiri whole red chilli, and cardamom pods.

Allow the spices to crackle for a few seconds and once they begin to turn a slight golden brown, quickly add the bottle gourd matchsticks & stir immediately.

Add 1 tsp salt & 1/4 tsp turmeric & stir. Add no water in the beginning.

On low heat, cover with a tight lid & cook for about 10 minutes. Remove the lid & stir. If the vegetable is dry, add 2 tbs water & cook for another 10-15 minutes till the gourd is soft. Once the gourd is cooked it will shrink considerably and release its moisture so the vegetable may have a lot of liquid.

Good to know: Especially taste some of the pieces along the outer skin  since these will be tougher than the pieces in the middle.

Add turmeric powder, red chilly powder, sugar and stir. Taste and adjust seasonings.

Good to know: The vegetable has to have a decided hint of sweet so the quantity of sugar required is not a typo and adjust accordingly.

Saute on medium- high heat till almost all of the liquid is absorbed and the vegetable is moist but not soupy. Taste and adjust seasoning.

Add the sauteed shrimp and stir. Sprinkle with chopped cilantro & pour mustard oil on top. Cover with a lid and rest for 5 minutes so the shrimp finish cooking in the steam.

Serve hot with steamed rice.

Enjoy!