As a gastronaut', one sometimes comes across a meal based on a style of cooking so rich, intricately woven in technique & so subtle in its nuances, from its origins to its preparation, that it challenges one's competence in the kitchen & demands nothing short of perfection in its execution, because at the end of this experience, you are left with an unforgettable a meal - a meal worthy of Royalty!
For me, this is sentiment is epitomized in this dish of the Royal Mughals -
Dum Pukth Chicken Biryani
A signature dish of moist flavorful chicken, cooked in a rich spicy concoction of spices, traditionally layered with rice, caramelized onions & dry fruits & finished with the scent of saffron & rose water.
Once a year, I roll up my sleeves in anticipation of this day - an event in itself, a day on which I hope to serve a splendid, Dum Pukth Chicken Biryani to family and close friends.
However, today it is made all the more special. Every month, Foodbuzz which is one of the largest online food blogging community hosts a special dinner series called Foodbuzz 24,24,24. Featured are 24 Foodbuzz Featured Publisher food bloggers, each creating & sharing 24 unique meals, on the very same night i.e during a 24-hour period, around the world! Isn't that absolutely fascinating?
I am so honored that today, I am one of the 24 and am even more heartened by the fact that while I'm up to my eyeballs in herbs, rice, chicken & onions, so are 24 others, all around the world, gathered in their respective home kitchens and dining rooms enduring the same levels of anxiety peppered with eager anticipation of a fantastic evening to be shared with friends and family! Hooray!
To share this very special evening we've invited our dear friends Jodi & Annie, Jan, Terry & her husband Andy and of course we'll be there with our little ones running helter skelter among it all! An evening such as this is sure to be one of fine company and fervent debate. So as far as I am concerned, the only way to improve upon a perfect evening would be to present an excellent meal.
~The menu~
Dum Pukth Chicken Biryani
with Sides
Shami kebabs
Literally translates to Syrian kebabs. These were introduced to Indian during the Mughal era when the Royal kitchen hired chefs from all around the Middle-East to serve.
Kachumbar
A refreshingly light salad with red onions, cilantro, tomatoes & lemon juice.
Dessert, Sevian
Fine vemicelli stewed in sweetened milk with almonds, golden raisins, cardamom & pistachios
I am obliged to serve the Dum Pukth Chicken Biryani as a one-dish-meal. Like a great work of art, it is best displayed against a blank canvas!
~The Origins of the Dum Pukth Cooking Style~
I know this is going to turn out to be a marathon post, but I would do a great injustice if I did not share a historical perspective on the origins of this signature style of cooking that is the foundation of this dish.
The Mughals from Persia invaded India in 14th century AD. Once the Mughals made India their home, they became one of the only conquerors to appreciate the cuisine of this ancient land.
The innovative Dum Pukht came into vogue during the reign of Nawaab Asaf-ud-Daulah. Dum Pukht translates literally as 'choking off the steam' and has been described as the process of 'maturing' a prepared dish.
As the story goes, there was a great famine in 1784. To feed his starving subjects, Nawaab Asaf-ud-Daulah decided to provide jobs by building the Bara Imambara.
Bara means big, and an imambara is a shrine built by Shia Muslims. To date, the Bara Imambara is among the grandest buildings of Lucknow. During the building stages huge quantities of food were cooked from the richly stocked royal pantrys , sealed in degs (giant pots) and then kept warm in massive double warmed bukhari or ovens. Though this process originated in Persia in the 14th century, where a prepared dish was sealed off and buried in the hot sand to 'mature', in India this was how Dum Pukht was born over 200 years ago.
In the Indian modern kitchen, Dum Pukht, takes the form of placing the dish in a hot oven with a dough seal, tightly wrapped around the joint between the pan and the lid. In the modern kitchen however, Dum Pukth conditions are emulated, by replacing the dough seal with a tightly sealed lid & damp cloth to capture condensation.
I have made every effort to stay true to the original recipe. However, to ensure superior results, I have re-interpreted some of the traditional techniques to suit the modern kitchen, keeping in mind the end-result. There is no true recipe for this dish. Rather as a tradition in many families, the method is passed down from generation to generation. Each family adds their own subtle variations to this basic recipe making it entirely theirs.
~My history with this dish~
Dum Pukth Chicken Biryani will always hold a special place in my heart because it is forever rooted in my childhood memories of India. As far as my family was concerned, there was really only one place that made a to- die- for Biryani in Mumbai - Coronation Darbar. We would travel in our little Fiat (remember those with the stick shift?) for over an hour to reach this hole-in-the-wall place, in the heart of Mumbai's Central Business District. Needless to say, parking was hell & Dad would have to circle several city blocks in search of a spot amongst fervent prayers.
I remember it as if it was just yesterday, that we would walk up 3 flights of creaky stairs and the place would just open up, out of the blue into this large 'hall' (a Brit term here - expansive room...smiles), a room with beautiful oak paneling and gleaming white marble table tops. This was a Muslim owned family restaurant and as was the custom, since we had ladies in our party, we would immediately be shown to the family eating areas.
These were set against a far wall, where each table was surrounded by its own oak partitions and manned by swinging plantation doors. We were seated in our own little enclave completely cut off from the rest of the restaurant.
In all those years I don't think we ever bothered looking at the menu. We would always begin our meal with a rich mutton (goat) trotter soup. Followed by Chicken Rashida - a thick gravy with wonderful, minty and curry leaf undertones. On the side, humongous fresh tandoori roti's cooked in an authentic earthen tandoor oven. (I continue to hunt for the recipe for Chicken Rashida for decades now, so far in vain)
At last, a special order of Dum Pukth Chicken Biryani. I can burst into song and dance about the flavor and tenderness of the meat but the real art, the real magic - was in the rice. The one thing that sets apart a Great Biryani from a mediocre one is that each rice grain must be tender, infused with flavor and yet stand alone, two never touching!
~Lets get cooking!~
I am up with the chickens today - 3.00 AM which means I've had only about 3 hours of sleep! It's all this adrenaline because I'm raring to go. So lets begin by organizing the ingredients for each step -
- Chicken
- Fried Onions
- Gravy
- Basmati Rice - Use only Basmati rice
- Garnishes
Cook's Note - It is entirely acceptable for the chicken with the gravy & marinade to be cooked & refrigerated the day before to save time.Also, this will allow the chicken gravy to thicken, thus getting rid of excess water further softening the rice.
Chicken -
Wash a 4-5 lb young Chicken. Using a pair of sharp kitchen shears proceed and your hands, begin tugging at the skins and start pulling it away.
The skin will be difficult to remove from the wings, so I just choose to leave it on.
Using sharp kitchen shears, begin cutting the chicken at its joints - thighs, breasts, wings and back. Then cut again separating the drumstick from the thigh, back into 3-4 pieces, wing from drummette and also cut each breast in 3-4 pieces. Place pieces in a large bowl. Wash hands thoroughly with soap and water.
Gravy & Marinade -
Assemble the ingredients -
For the gravy - ghee, cinnamon bark, whole cardamom, whole dried bay leaves, onions, garlic, ginger, raw cashew nuts & sour curds or buttermilk. Spices used are turmeric powder, garam masala, red chilly powder, cumin-coriander powder, salt, Thai green chillies may also be used. Herbs used are fresh cilantro and fresh mint.
Cook's note - Traditionally yogurt which is more like sour curds is used but here in the US the yogurt is not sour enough so I find buttermilk is an excellent substitution to yogurt.
Onions - This is a crucial step in the process. To achieve the deep caramelized fried onions required, it is important that the onions are very finely sliced so use a mandolin slicer on its medium setting.
Cook's Note - I tried the food processor but since the onion needs to be cut in strips (not semi circles) the food processor does not give you control over that. Also with a knife its very difficult to achieve the thin slices required.
Slice all the onions required for both the gravy & the garnish altogether.
Cook's Note - It is important to use a flat frying pan for this step.
Pour oil into the frying pan to about 1/2" depth. Do not reduce the oil. Once the onions caramelize, they will release the oil which can be drained away. Add more oil if the onions are not deep in oil.
Heat the oil till very hot on medium high heat. To test oil, drop a slice on onion into the oil. It must simmer immediately.
Important - Fry the onions for approx 35-45 minutes or so until have caramelized a rich brown color - almost a deep brown. Do not step away from the stove and keep stirring every 3-5 minutes or so.
The onions have a tendency to brown around the edges. If left unattended these will turn black very quickly and will impart a bitter taste to the entire dish.
Once all the onion have uniformly browned, drain with a perforated spoon or mesh skimmer and sit on baking tray lined with double layered kitchen paper towels.
Spread out the fried onions so they cool down. As soon as they have cooled you will find they impart a crinkly sound when touched with your fingers.
Separate into 2 equal quantities - use half for the gravy and place the other half in an airtight container and refrigerate till ready to use.
Garlic-Ginger paste - In a food processor, place the garlic and ginger. Chop till fine. To this add 1/4 cup water and pulverize to a fine paste.
Cashew paste - In a clean coffee grinder, place the cashews. Grind to a fine mix without adding any liquid.
In a heavy bottomed saute pan, large enough for a whole chicken, heat the ghee on medium heat. Add the cinnamon bark, cardamom and bay leaves. Add the garlic and ginger pastes.
Cook's Note - I am using a deep pot so I can use the same to go directly into the oven with the rice.
Saute for about 2-3 minutes. Add the cut chicken & salt and increase heat to medium-high. Begin to saute till the chicken has turned from pink to pale white. This should take about 15 minutes.
Now add the buttermilk. Saute for another 2 minutes. . Add the spices - turmeric powder, red chilly powder, garam masala powder and the cumin-coriander powder & the fried onions that have been set aside for the gravy. Saute for about 5 minutes.
Cover with a tight fitting lid and allow the chicken to cook for about 20 minutes or until the chicken has cooked but is not falling off the bone. Add the cashew paste & stir. Simmer for a few minutes.
Evaporate any excess gravy on medium-high heat so there is no more than about 1-1/2 cup of gravy in the pan.
Cook's Note - Stew the chicken in its juices and add no additional water. The juices from the chicken are enough to cook it. Reduce the heat to low while cooking but increase heat during evaporation. Also as the gravy thickens with the cashew paste, it will have a tendency to stick to the bottom of the pan. Stay at hand and stir often.
At this point, STOP if cooking the Biryani the next day. Allow chicken to cool & refrigerate till ready to use. If cooking the same day as I am continue with the recipe.
Garnishes -
Herbs - Chop the cilantro leaves & mint leaves.
Chillies - Slit the Thai green chillies if using.
Potatoes - Peel and wash the potatoes. Halve then quarter. If the potato is large, cut each half lengthwise into 2-3 thick slices. Soak in a bowl of clean water to prevent turning brown till ready to use.
Drain the water from the potatoes. Rub 1/2 tbs salt thoroughly on the potatoes. Pour oil into a non-stick flat frying pan to 1/2" depth. Heat till very hot.
On low-medium heat, cook the potatoes on till thoroughly cooked. This may take approx 30-40 minutes. Drain with a perforated spoon or mesh skimmer.
Cook's Note- Pierce the blade of a paring knife into the potatoes all the way to the core to check if they are done. If the potatoes remain uncooked, they will have no further opportunity to soften so ensure the potatoes are cooked in this step.
These next steps should be commenced no more than 1 - 1/2 hours before serving time.
Preheat the oven to 400 deg F.
Cashews - In a saute pan, heat 1 tsp ghee. Saute the cashews for about 2 minutes till slightly golden and they release a scent. Remove to a bowl.
Golden raisins - Soak the raisins in a bowl of clean warm water till ready to use.
Basmati Rice - Soak the Basmati rice in a large bowl and completely cover with water. The water should extend a good 2-3 inches above the level of the rice.
Saffron - Crush the saffron in a mortar & pestle with 1 tbs milk
Rose water - Measure and set aside.
Transfer the chicken into a deep oven safe pot or use a deep Aluminum roasting pan. I am using a a deep, heavy bottomed pot but since the handles are not oven safe, I'll wrap these in foil and that will do the job.
To the cooked chicken and gravy, add the potatoes and stir thoroughly.
Sprinkle with chopped fresh cilantro leaves and mint leaves.
Cooking the Rice - This is one the most critical step in the entire preparation. This is not the time to take that call, walk away from the stove or be distracted in any way.Vigilance, my friends!
Heat approx 8 cups of water and add 1 tbs salt , cinnamon bark, cloves & bay leaves. Bring the water to a ferocious boil. Add the juice of a lemon - this is a very important step to help in keeping the rice grains separate.
Add the soaked Basmati rice and cook for about 5-7 minutes - rice should be half cooked.
While the rice is cooking, take a small sieve and start removing sieve fulls of rice, draining excess water into the pot & cover the chicken. Do this 3-4 times till the chicken is completely covered with rice.
Drain the rest of the rice immediately & thoroughly in a large sieve. Do not overcook the rice. I repeat, do not overcook the rice!
Cook's Note - The reason for doing the rice in this 2 step method is because during the 'choking off the steam' process in the oven (Dum Pukth) the rice in contact with the chicken will cook & soften further compared to the rice towards the top of the pot therefore the rice on the top is cooked a few minutes longer compared to the rice deeper into the pot.
Assembly -
Traditionally the meat & rice were arranged in alternating layers. I don't do this because in older times or in very large families or gatherings, huge quantities of Biryani are cooked at a time in pots 18" deep & over 2 ft in diameter. Hence the layering was required to break the the depth of the meat & rice layers.
However in today's home kitchen we rarely ever cook for more than 4-6 people at a time so in order to get a deep enough layer of rice, I simply place all the chicken at the bottom & top with rice. I do however layer the garnishes into the rice as I am placing it into the pot or pan.
Orange Colored rice - Take 1/4 tsp orange food coloring and place it in a bowl with 2 tbs water. Add 2 tbs cooked rice. Stir. Set aside.
Assembly -
Over the rice that has already been placed over the chicken,
- Sprinkle 1/2 of the raisins and the cashew nuts over the rice
- Spread the remaining drained rice evenly over the chicken. Sprinkle the remaining raisins, cashew nuts & fried onions over the rice
- Spread the colored orange rice only (discard any food coloring in bowl) over the rice. Sprinkle the saffron overall the rice & also drizzle the rose water all over.
Pour melted ghee all over. Biryani rice must be a little greasy once cooked.
Moisten a towel under a tap till moist but not dripping wet. Place over the pot or pan. Cover with tight fitting lid.
Place the pot in the pre-heated oven & bake for approx 15-20 minutes to complete to Dum Pukth process. Gently fluff very lightly with a spoon or fork. Cover with the lid & set aside for 30 minutes.
Remove from oven and take off the lid. Serve immediately by digging the large metal spoon all the way to the bottom the same way you would cut into a Lasagna. Do not stir.
You can remove to a serving platter if you wish but you mush do so carefully so not to break the rice grains. Serve immediately with prepared sides.
TO THE TABLE, TO THE TABLE
We are all impatient to dig in. All this food photography has everybody drooling & bellies are growling!
Since we were unable to procure Indian wine, we've decided to go with a New Zealand, Grove Hill, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, Wine Spectator - 90 points.
THE PARADE OF THE DISHES
So here is our marvelous Dum Pukth Chicken Biryani, in its starring role, plated and stunning!
In its supporting role, the equally delectable platter of Shami Kababs, which are beef and split chick pea kababs cooked with whole spices, finely ground and pan fried, dipped in egg
Also featured is the Kachumbar, a wonderful, light and refreshing salad prepared with sliced red onions, ripe tomatoes, lime juice, cilantro leaves & red chilly powder .
BITES, REVIEWS & GREAT CONVERSATION
Cheers!
Dinner's in full swing! Jodi had us all in stitches when she said took her first bite into the Biryani & said, " Uncle Ben doesn't do this"!
Mr. Hubby at the head of the table is too engrossed in his plate to look at the wife who is currently sticking her tongue out at him!
A great one from Terry, "What a perfect blend of heat & spice"...and the textures! Everyone was raving about the kabab's ....delicious, delicious all the way around.
And so the meal progresses, everyone is too busy chowing down to talk! And finally - empty plates & engrossing conversation.
IT'S TIME FOR AFTER DINNER, FINGER BOWLS
What are finger bowls?
This is wonderful custom that I really miss. Because so many foods require the use of fingers, bowl of hot water with lemon slices and rose petals are presented after the meal to rinse the tips of your fingers! Isn't that cool?
We actually once had a guest who proceeded to drink up the water instead of using it for washing!
BELLY'S FULL! IT'S TIME SLOUCH & EXPAND!
In anticipation of Asli Chai!
Asli Chai, real Chai as prepared in India for centuries, stewed with cardamom and fresh ginger root. Rich & a depth of flavor in every sip!
Last but not least, our Vermicelli dessert, Sevian stewed in sweetened milk with sliced almonds, golden raisins and pistachios. Sweet heaven in a bowl!
I have to get me some of that!
So there you have it! What an evening, what a meal! To say that this evening was a hit would be an understatement!
Nonetheless, there was a lot of groaning about how stuffed we all were and couldn't move etc etc. Thankfully, Mr. Hubby still did the dishes! Considering that I have been going since 3.00 AM I'm pooped but nothing some more of that chai won't fix!
As the evening winds down, more lounging & relaxing with good friends. More dessert, more chai & even more delightful company!
Don't you wish you were here?
Likewise!
~
Recipe for
DUM PUKTH CHICKEN BIRYANI
Serves 4-6 (Do not halve this recipe. Needs to be made in large quantities for adequate layer depths)
Shopping list
Chicken & Gravy-
1#4-5 lb whole Chicken
6 tbs 'ghee'
1" piece ginger
6 garlic cloves
2 large yellow onions
1/2 cup raw cashew nuts
1" cinnamon bark
4 whole cardamoms
3 dried bay leaves
1 lb potatoes
1-1/2 tsp salt
1 buttermilk or sour curds
1 1/2 tsp garam masala
1 tsp red chilly powder
3/4 tbs salt
3/4 tsp turmeric powder
1-1/2 tsp cumin-coriander powder
1/2 cup each - fresh cilantro and mint leaves
2 Thai green chillies
Approx 1 cup oil for deep frying
Garnish-
1 large yellow onion
1/4 cup roasted cashew nuts, unsalted
1/4 cup raisins soaked in clean water
Rice-
3 cups uncooked Basmati rice
3/4 tbs salt
1" cinnamon bark
5 cloves
1/2 tsp whole black pepper corns
5 whole cardamom pods
1 lemon
1/4 tsp orange food coloring mixed with 2 tbs water
1/8 tsp saffron strands crushed and mixed with 1 tbs milk
1 tbs rose water
1/4 cup melted 'ghee'
Preparations for Chicken & Gravy -
Chicken - Wash, skin and joint chicken. Set aside.
Onions - This is a crucial step in the process. To achieve the deep caramelized fried onions, it is important that the onions are very finely sliced so use a mandolin slicer only .
Cook's Note - It is important to use a flat frying pan for this step.
Pour oil into the frying pan to about 1/2" depth. Do not reduce the oil. Once the onions caramelize, they will release the oil which can be drained away.
Heat the oil till very hot on medium high heat. To test oil, drop a slice on onion into the oil. It must simmer immediately.
Important - Fry the onions for approx 35-45 minutes or so until have caramelized a rich brown color - almost a deep brown. Do not step away from the stove and keep stirring every 3-5 minutes or so. The onions have a tendency to brown around the edges. If left unattended these will turn black very quickly and will impart a bitter taste to the entire dish.
Once all the onion have uniformly browned, drain with a perforated spoon or mesh skimmer and sit on baking tray lined with double layered kitchen paper towels.
Spread out the fried onions so they cool down. As soon as they have cooled you will find they impart a crinkly sound when touched with your fingers.
Separate into 2 equal quantities - use half for the gravy and place the other half in an airtight container and refrigerate till ready to use.
Garlic-Ginger paste - In a food processor, place the garlic and ginger. Chop till fine. To this add 1/4 cup water and pulverize to a fine paste.
Cashew paste - In a clean coffee grinder, place the cashews. Grind to a fine mix without adding any liquid.
Preparation on the day of assembling the Biryani -
Herbs - Chop the cilantro leaves & mint leaves.
Chillies - Slit the Thai green chillies if using.
Potatoes - Peel and wash the potatoes. Halve & slice each half into 3 lengths. Soak in a bowl of clean water till ready to use.
Cashew nuts - In a saute pan, heat 1 tsp ghee. Saute the cashews for about 2 minutes till slightly golden and they release a scent. Remove to a bowl.
Raisins - Soak in a bowl of water till completely covered.
Cooking method -
In a heavy bottomed saute pan, large enough for a whole chicken, heat the ghee on medium heat. Add the cinnamon bark, cardamom and bay leaves. Add the garlic and ginger pastes.
Saute for about 2-3 minutes. Add the cut chicken & salt and increase heat to medium-high. Begin to saute till the chicken has turned from pink to pale white. This should take about 15 minutes.
Now add the buttermilk. Saute for another 2 minutes. Add the spices - turmeric powder, red chilly powder, garam masala powder and the cumin-coriander powder & the fried onions that have been set aside for the gravy. Saute for about 5 minutes.
Cover with a tight fitting lid and allow the chicken to cook for about 20-25 minutes or until the chicken has cooked but is not falling off the bone. Add the cashew paste & stir. Simmer for a few minutes.
Evaporate any excess gravy on medium-high heat so there is no more than about 1-1/2 cup of gravy in the pan.
Cook's Note - Stew the chicken in its juices and add no additional water. The juices from the chicken are enough to cook it. Reduce the heat to low while cooking but increase heat during evaporation. Also as the gravy thickens with the cashew paste, it will have a tendency to stick to the bottom of the pan. Stay at hand and stir often.
At this point, STOP if cooking the Biryani the next day. Allow chicken to cool & refrigerate till ready to use. If cooking the same day continue with the recipe.
For the potatoes - Drain the water from the potatoes. Rub 1/2 tbs salt thoroughly on the potatoes. In the same oil cook the potatoes on low-medium heat till thoroughly cooked (approx 20-25 minutes) Set aside.
Remove the chicken from the refrigerator if needed to bring to room temperature.
These next steps should be commenced no more than 1 1/2 hours before serving time.
Preheat the oven to 400 deg F.
Transfer the chicken into a deep oven safe pot or use a deep Aluminum roasting pan. I am using a a deep, heavy bottomed pot but since the handles are not oven safe, I'll wrap these in foil and that will do the job.
To the cooked chicken and gravy, add the potatoes and stir thoroughly. Sprinkle with chopped fresh cilantro leaves and mint leaves.
Rice - Soak the rice in plenty of water for 30 minutes. Drain away all the water thoroughly in a sieve.
Heat approx 8 cups of water and salt, cloves, peppercorns & cinnamon to a ferocious boil.
Add 3/4 tbs salt , cinnamon bark, cloves & whole cardamom pods. Bring the water to a ferocious boil. Add the juice a lemon - this is a very important step to help in keeping the rice grains separate.
Add the soaked Basmati rice and cook for about 5-7 minutes - rice should be half cooked. While the rice is cooking, take a small sieve and start removing sieve fulls of rice, draining excess water into the pot & cover the chicken with the rice. Do this 3-4 times till the chicken is completely covered with rice.
Drain the rest of the rice immediately in a large sieve. Do not overcook the rice. I repeat, do not overcook the rice!
Cook's Note - The reason for doing the rice in this 2 step method is because during the 'choking off the steam' process in the oven (Dum Pukth) the rice in contact with the chicken will cook & soften further compared to the rice towards the top of the pot therefore the rice on the top is cooked a few minutes longer compared to the rice deeper into the pot.
Colored rice - Take 1/4 tsp orange food coloring and place it in a bowl with 2 tbs water. Add 2 tbs cooked rice. Stir. Set aside.
Saffron - Crush the saffron in a mortar & pestle with 1 tbs milk
Rose water - Measure and set aside.
Assembly -
Over the rice that has already been placed over the chicken,
- Sprinkle 1/2 of the raisins and the cashew nuts over the rice
- Spread the remaining drained rice evenly over the chicken. Sprinkle the remaining raisins, cashew nuts & fried onions over the rice
- Spread the colored orange rice only (discard any food coloring in bowl) over the rice. Sprinkle the saffron overall the rice & also drizzle the rose water all over.
- Pour melted ghee all over. Biryani rice must be a little greasy once cooked.
Moisten a towel under a tap till moist but not dripping wet. Place over the pot or pan. Cover with tight fitting lid.
Place in the pre-heated oven & bake for approx 15-20 minutes.
Gently fluff very lightly with a spoon or fork. Cover with the lid & set aside for 30 minutes.
Remove from oven and take off the lid. Serve immediately by spooning all the way to the bottom the same way you would cut into a Lasagna. Do not stir.
You can remove to a serving platter if you wish but you mush do so carefully so not to break the rice grains. Serve immediately with prepared sides.
Enjoy!
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