Weave a Thousand Flavors

North Indian Style Khoya Chicken

Khoya is thickened milk is used widely in North Indian cooking usually in all kinds of  desserts.

It's texture can be similar to ricotta cheese but here in the US it is available in a 'batti' i.e. hardened brick form which contains only 50% moisture and can therefore be grated like cheese.

It also keeps longer in the refrigerator than the soft cheese variety.

Which begs the question, what does it do for chicken?

In all it's deliciousness, the chicken is cooked in a onion and tomato gravy and finished with grated khoya for the last few minutes as a finish.

The result is a rich chicken gravy and quite unlike the subdued flavor one gets when finishing with heavy cream.

The khoya, doesn't subdue the flavors of the gravy but rather adds a rick milky dimension which is quite lovely.

I wouldn't make this every day or we're all likely to turn into roly-polies. But this does make a nice change for when company is over or you want to treat yourself to a fine weekend meal.

Must serve with North Indian breads, rice would be a poor subsitute and I'd go as far as to say that rice is a no-can-do!

Homemade Chicken Makhani ~ Butter Chicken to Give the Restaurant version a kick in the pants!

Your average restaurant version Butter Chicken is usually a dish with just one beat - sweet.

It lacks the palimpsest of flavors, the real melody, form and complexity that comes when this dish is made well and made at home.

Makhani gravy which directly translates into cream gravy, as the name implies has some cream in the gravy but is mainly a tomato based gravy. To this gravy, succulent pieces of freshly made, boneless tandoori chicken is simmered.

As the story the goes, the original Chicken Makhani was created by fluke at the Moti Mahal restaurant in Daryaganj, Delhi on the outskirts of the walled city back in the 1950's. The restaurant was famous for it's Tandoori chicken and the chefs began to reserve leftover pieces of roasted neck, wing tips etc along with their juices.

On one occasion, tomatoes and butter was tossed in with the chicken and juices to create what we now call Chicken Makhani. The Delhites couldn't get enough of the stuff only to spread like wild fire the world over. Like many good ole' stories, the source, the etymology has long since been forgotten but the love of the dish remains.

There are too many versions of the recipe out there and some have even foregone the tandoori chicken (bloody hell!). This version stays true to it's Delhi roots.

A handful of ingredients come together and like in so many dishes when the ingredients are few, the quality plays an ever important role. Simple ingredients like the ginger-garlic paste, should be freshly made in the grinder or food processor (like a Magic Bullet) capable of preparing smooth pastes.

Also, none of the ingredients should be omitted especially the kasuri methi which is basically dried fenugreek leaves that adds that vital flavor that carries ordinary Makhani gravy into the realm of extraordinary.

Mediocre restaurant versions also use food coloring while making the gravy and especially while making the tandoori chicken. There is simply no need for this. Why would you want to ingest red dye 40 with your food?

So leave that to the restaurants and keep your homemade butter Chicken, pure, true to the original and insanely, lip smackingly delicious!

Indian Pantry Essential ~ Homemade Garam Masala

Garam masala is used extensively in North Indian and Pakistan cuisine is a spice blend that is as organic as it is singular. Garam masala ~  garam (hot) and masala (spices) is a blend of whole spices that are roasted and ground to a powder.

A spice blend that is fragrant and pungent and hence the term 'garam' here refers not to heat i.e. capsaicin content but rather to the intensity of the spices as they come together.

I consider it organic because it is a recipe that has evolved with each family.

Though varied in composition of spices and each family uses its own signature recipe its foundation remains intact. It is not unheard of that in some family recipe as many as 36 whole spices are used to blend their garam masala.

In mine we tend to stay with the masala in its classic form - coriander seeds, cumin seeds, whole cardamom pods, whole dried kashmiri red chillies, cinnamon sticks, cloves & black pepper corns.

I do add a bit of fennel seeds in mine though my mother does not and I know others who substitute it with nutmeg.

Tweak to your heart's content but know this, store bought garam masala can never come close to homemade and since it can last fragrant for up to a year if refrigerated in an airtight container, now there's simply no excuse to grind up some of your own.

And don't forget - a little goes a long way!

Meat filled envelopes ~ Murtabak (Malaysia) & Tavaa Roti, Mughlai Paratha (India)

After a day of raiding the refrigerator, fixing 15 minute meals and eating out of bowls, I am ready to get back on the horse and bring out my exploratory cap for something different and delicious for lunch.

The prerequisite - nothing that involves rice or noodles or pasta. 'Nuf already!

My mind drifted towards samosas, since I had a some ground meat in the ice box but  when we do end up making samosas we're going to make the traditional variety first - punjab style stuffed with spicy potatoes and peas, the meat filled ones will just have to wait.

And then it came to me like Zeus' bolt - 'meat filled envelopes' known by a variety of names such as tavaa roti  in Mumbai or Mughlai paratha in Delhi or Murtabak in Maylasia.

 I grew up eating these. We'd go to this neighborhood restaurant row with outdoor seating and we'd order what was called tavaa roti (which essentially means griddle fried bread) and I would watch this guy facing a 5 ft long griddle , stretch and twirl the dough like it was made of nothing but elastic, crack eggs and flip the stuffed rotis,  high in the air with this long metal spatula. The one thing I do distinctly remember is that they were absolutely delicious.

Finally, standing at a roadside food cart outside the railway station at Johor Bahru, Malaysia, while these meat filled envelopes were prepared with similar theatrics was another dear memory. The rotiwala would throw the dough in the air and stretch it as he twirled  it high above his head ( not unlike the pizza makers in Italy). 

A lime sized lump of dough would become a large, smooth sheet in about a minute. It was then cooked and filled directly on the griddle with savory meat, chopped onions and beaten egg.

Only this time they were called  Murtabak . Now I can't promise theatrics but I reckon we can make a pretty decent Murtabak a.k.a tavaa roti or Mughlai paratha right at home.

 

Shami Kababs - Literally translates to Syrian Kababs, these are deliciously spiced meat and split chick pea kababs

I am still mourning the loss of these kababs from Saturday night's Foodbuzz dinner. If you haven't a clue of what I speak, you really ought to click here

 

Don't get me wrong - I LOVE  a good dinner party with good friends but I belong to that breed of hostesses who can't ever taste the food at my own party and only truly relish it after everyone has left - preferably barefoot, with my feet curled up on the couch and hopefully in my favorite flannels. Alas, that was not to be....an empty platter was all that was left for me.

I can write many a verse in elaborate description of just how good these little meat morsels turned out but I think our friend Terry described it best, "I couldn't believe the kabobs and was relieved that I restrained myself from trying to take another and put it in my pocket to savor the unique flavor yet again:)"

Now, if a humble kabab can reduce a decent, lovely woman to kleptomania, you have to ask yourself, just how good were those doggone things?

 

Nothing like Homemade Ghee

 
We had some acquaintances over to dinner the other night. They are some friends of friends and we had only met them a couple of times at community gathering events. They had heard of my cooking skills (not shy am I?) and they wanted some authentic home cooked Indian grub. So we invited them.

One of the ladies saw that I was using ghee and she started talking to the other women about how she picked up a bottle of fragrant ghee at this high end organic foods store (for something like 8 or 9 bucks). Now no offense,  but I have experienced some of these ready made ghee's available in  the high end markets and all I can say is - close but no cigar!

I realized as I was stirring the dal that as long as one can get their hands on sweet cream butter (I bought 2 lbs on sale at 1.59/lb just to make ghee)  and stir a pot, you can get the most awesome, liquid, golden ghee in 45 minutes flat, for one-thirds the cost and double the quantity!

Now for those of you unfamiliar with ghee, it is also known as clarified butter and it is fantastic in  rice dishes, Indian cooking and makes a mean steak au poivre to tow -- you think I'm kidding - try it and see for yourself.

I cook my steak with nothing but - and here's why. It has a much higher burning point, than  butter and I think of it as the 'clean fuel of cooking fat'. Good term, eh?

It has no strong discernible flavor so you can use it in just about anything - roasted veggies, roasted potatoes (to die for) and almost all Indian cooking - for which olive oil has too strong a flavor and scent. Do you what my favorite food in ghee is? Fried eggs! Yummy!

Sevian - A Vermicelli Dessert from Northern India of stewed sweetened milk, almonds, golden raisins, cardamom & pistachios

One of the most delightful desserts from North Indian kitchen is  Sevian (pronounced - say-vi-yaa) Here fine vermicelli is lightly sauteed in ghee and then stewed in sweetened milk with almonds, golden raisins, & cardamom. Finally garnished with pistachio slivers.

Growing up, I have seen my Mum make this dessert so often sometimes for dinner parties and sometimes just to satisfy that sweet tooth. I have always taken this for granted and have never bothered making notes or observing how Mum was fixing it. All I remember was relishing bowls and bowls of this heavenly nectar.

So when the morning of the Foodbuzz 24,24,24 dinner party rolls in, you can read all about that splendid evening here and I have done nothing for this dish with the exception of stocking the groceries, I jump off the couch, coffee in one hand , paper & pencil in the other and begin frantically dialing my parent's at home.

Fortunately Mum picks up and I explain my predicament. After a short spiel on how I really must stop doing everything at the last minute, she reveals not only her recipe but more importantly the critical points to watch out for in the cooking process. Because its the little stuff that will get you every time!

Fortunately, this one's easy to fix with spectacular results. There are a couple of additions I have made to Mum's recipe, adding a can of evaporated milk to speed things up & a tsp of rose water. Other than that, here's Mum's Sevian -

The main ingredients required are -  

Fine brown wheat vermicelli (available in Indo-Pak stores), milk, evaporated milk, whole cloves, sugar, cashew halves (optional), sliced almonds, golden raisins, rose water & sliced pistachios for garnish. 

Cook's Note - Do not use the vermicelli sold under the pasta section of regular grocery store. This warrants very fine wheat vermicelli that is a rich brown available at Indo-Pak stores.

 

 

Prepare the ingredients -

 Sevian - If your sevian is in 11-12" long lengths, with a pair of kitchen shears cut into 4 equal parts. Set aside

 

Almonds - In a saute pan, heat ghee till hot but not fuming. Add almonds and stir constantly for about 2 minutes until it is golden brown. Remove to a bowl and set aside.

 

Cashews halves (if using) - In a saute pan, heat ghee till hot but not fuming. Add almonds and stir constantly for about 2 minutes until it is golden brown. Remove to a bowl and set aside.

 
 

In a heavy bottom saute pan, on low heat, heat the ghee till hot but not fuming. Add the cloves. As soon as they swell up, add the vermicelli.

 

Saute for 2-3 minutes until the vermicelli is a golden brown. There will be a distinct glistening on the vermicelli & it will release a scent. Stir constantly during this process. Watch for strands vermicelli turning brown quicker than others.

Add all the milk including the can of evaporated milk. Increase heat to medium & bring to simmer.

Lower heat and stir regularly for about 15-20 minutes. The vermicelli will have expanded and the milk should show signs of slight thickening.

Cook's Note - It is very important to be at hand and stir. If the milk sticks to the bottom of pan as it thickens, it will give out a burnt milk smell and the entire will have to discarded. 

 

Add the sugar, almonds, cashew haves if using & cardamom powder. Stir.

Taste and adjust seasonings. Simmer for 2-3 minutes and remove from heat.

Refrigerate once cooled if using the next day. If serving the same day, just before serving warm the Sevian.Add rose water and stir.

Cook's Note - As the Sevian sits it will thicken. So you may add as much as 1/2-1 cup of milk to thin but only do so once warmed. Also once again taste and adjust the sugar if needed.

Some families like their sevian thick & others like it thin. In ours we like it thin. I do not recommend serving your Sevian very thick like a cream of wheat consistency. It should be thinner than a thick soup.

Remove the Sevian to a decorative serving bowl and garnish with pistachio slivers and decorate with rose petals if desired. 

Serve warm or hot in individual serving bowls.

One bite into the creamy rich texture of the vermicelli with the milk and dry fruits and it has us swooning.

The milk is infused with flavor from the cardamom and the little crunch from the almonds and cashews is a lovely contrast to the smooth silkiness of the vermicelli. I especially loved the pistachios and the hint of rose water in it.

I hope you make this when you have your next 'Indian nite'. I think you'll enjoy it as much as we did.

Recipe for

Sevian - A Vermicelli Dessert from Northern India

Preparation time -  10 minutes

Cooking time - 20 minutes

Shopping list

3.5 oz/100 gms Sevian or thin Vermicelli (brown)

1 # 12 oz can evaporated milk

6 cups milk ( plus extra to thin once cooled)

1/2 cup sugar

2 whole cloves

1-1/4 tsp powdered cardamom

1-1/2 tsp ghee

3 tbs sliced almonds

1/2 tsp ghee to saute almonds

2 tbs shelled pistachio nuts, for garnish

1 tsp Rosewater (optional)

Preparation 

Sevian - If your sevian is in 11-12" long lengths, with a pair of kitchen shears cut into 4 equal parts. Set aside.

Cashews halves (if using) - In a saute pan, heat ghee till hot but not fuming. Add almonds and stir constantly for about 2 minutes until it is golden brown. Remove to a bowl and set aside.

Almonds - In a saute pan, heat ghee till hot but not fuming. Add almonds and stir constantly for about 2 minutes until it is golden brown. Remove to a bowl and set aside.

Cooking Method

In a heavy bottom saute pan, on low heat, heat the ghee till hot but not fuming. Add the cloves. As soon as they swell up, add the vermicelli.

Saute for 2-3 minutes until the vermicelli is a golden brown. There will be a distinct glistening on the vermicelli & it will release a scent. Stir constantly during this process. Watch for strands vermicelli turning brown quicker than others.

Add all the milk. Increase heat to medium & bring to simmer.

Lower heat immediately and stir regularly for about 20 minutes. The vermicelli will have expanded and the milk should show signs of slight thickening.

Cook's Note - It is very important to be at hand and stir. If the milk sticks to the bottom of pan as it thickens, it will give out a burnt milk smell and the entire will have to discarded.

Add the sugar, almonds & cardamom powder. Stir.

Taste and adjust seasonings.

Simmer for 2-3 minutes and remove from heat. Add rose water and stir.

Cook's Note - As the Sevian sits it will thicken. So you may add as much as 1/2-1 cup of milk to thin but only do so once warmed. Also once again taste and adjust the sugar if needed.

Some families like their sevian thick & others like it thin. In ours we like it thin. I do not recommend serving your Sevian thick like a cream of wheat consistency. It should be thinner than a thick soup.

Garnish with sliced pistachios.  Serve warm or hot.

Enjoy!

Foodbuzz 24:24:24 ~ Revive a 14th Century Tradition from Mughal India, Dum Pukth Chicken Biryani

 

 

 

 

 

 

As a gastronaut', one sometimes comes across a meal based on a style of cooking so rich, intricately woven in technique & so subtle in its nuances, from its origins to its preparation, that it challenges one's competence in the kitchen & demands nothing short of perfection in its execution, because at the end of this experience, you are left with an unforgettable  a meal - a meal worthy of Royalty!

For me, this is sentiment is epitomized in this dish of the Royal Mughals - 

Dum Pukth Chicken Biryani

A signature dish of  moist flavorful chicken, cooked in a rich spicy concoction of spices, traditionally layered with rice, caramelized onions & dry fruits & finished with the scent of saffron & rose water.

Once a year, I roll up my sleeves in anticipation of this day - an event in itself, a day on which I hope to  serve a splendid, Dum Pukth Chicken Biryani to family and close friends.

However, today it is made all the more special. Every month, Foodbuzz which is one of the largest online  food blogging community  hosts a special dinner series called Foodbuzz 24,24,24. Featured are 24 Foodbuzz Featured Publisher food bloggers, each creating & sharing  24 unique meals, on the very same night i.e during a 24-hour period,  around the world! Isn't that absolutely fascinating?

I am so honored that today, I am one of the 24 and am even more heartened by the fact that while I'm up to my eyeballs in herbs, rice, chicken & onions, so are 24 others, all around the world, gathered in their respective home kitchens and dining rooms enduring the same levels of anxiety peppered with eager anticipation of a fantastic evening to be shared with friends and family! Hooray!

  To share this very special evening we've invited our dear friends Jodi & Annie, Jan, Terry & her husband Andy and of course we'll be there with our little ones running helter skelter among it all! An evening such as this is sure to be one of fine company and fervent debate. So as far as I am concerned, the only way  to improve upon a perfect evening would be to present an excellent  meal.

~The menu~

 Dum Pukth Chicken Biryani

  with Sides

Shami kebabs

Literally translates to Syrian kebabs. These were introduced to Indian during the Mughal era when the Royal kitchen hired chefs from all around the Middle-East to serve.

  Kachumbar

A refreshingly light salad with red onions, cilantro, tomatoes & lemon juice.

Dessert,  Sevian

Fine vemicelli stewed in sweetened milk with almonds, golden raisins, cardamom & pistachios

I am obliged to serve the Dum Pukth Chicken Biryani  as a one-dish-meal. Like a great work of art, it is best displayed against a blank canvas!

 ~The Origins of the Dum Pukth Cooking Style~

I know this is going to turn out to be a marathon post, but I would do a great injustice if I did not share a historical perspective on the origins of this signature style of cooking that is the foundation of this dish.

 

 The Mughals from Persia invaded India in 14th century AD. Once the Mughals made India their home, they became one of  the only conquerors to appreciate the cuisine of this ancient land.

The innovative Dum Pukht came into vogue during the reign of Nawaab Asaf-ud-Daulah. Dum Pukht translates literally as 'choking off the steam' and has  been described as the process of 'maturing' a prepared dish.

As the story goes, there was a great famine in 1784. To feed his starving subjects, Nawaab Asaf-ud-Daulah decided to provide jobs by building the Bara Imambara.

 

Bara means big, and an imambara is a shrine built by Shia Muslims. To date, the Bara Imambara is among the grandest buildings of Lucknow. During the building stages huge quantities of food were cooked from the richly stocked royal pantrys , sealed in degs (giant pots) and then kept warm in massive double warmed bukhari or ovens. Though this  process originated in Persia in the 14th century, where a prepared dish was sealed off and buried in the hot sand to 'mature', in India this was how Dum Pukht was born over 200 years ago.

In the Indian modern kitchen, Dum Pukht, takes the form of placing the dish in a hot oven with a dough seal, tightly wrapped around the joint between the pan and the lid.  In the modern kitchen however,  Dum Pukth conditions are emulated, by replacing the dough seal with a tightly sealed  lid & damp cloth to capture condensation.

 I have made every effort to stay true to the original recipe.  However, to ensure superior results, I have re-interpreted some of the traditional techniques to suit the modern kitchen, keeping in mind the end-result. There is no true recipe for this dish. Rather as a tradition in many families, the  method is passed down from generation to generation. Each family adds their own subtle variations to this basic recipe making it entirely theirs.

~My history with this dish~

Dum Pukth Chicken Biryani  will  always hold a special place in my heart because it is forever rooted in my childhood memories of India. As far as my family was concerned, there was really only one place that made a to- die- for Biryani  in Mumbai - Coronation Darbar. We would travel in our little Fiat (remember those with the stick shift?) for over an hour to reach this hole-in-the-wall place,  in the heart of Mumbai's Central Business District. Needless to say, parking was hell & Dad would have to circle several city blocks in search  of a spot  amongst fervent prayers.

I remember it as if it was just yesterday, that we would walk up 3 flights of creaky stairs and the place would just open up, out of the blue  into this large 'hall' (a Brit term here - expansive room...smiles), a room with beautiful oak paneling and gleaming white marble table tops. This was a Muslim owned family restaurant and as was the custom, since we had ladies in our party, we would immediately be shown to the family eating areas.

These were set against a far wall, where each table was surrounded by its own oak  partitions and manned by swinging plantation doors. We were seated in our own little enclave completely cut off from the rest of the restaurant.

In all those years I don't think we ever bothered looking at the menu. We would always begin our meal  with a rich mutton (goat) trotter soup. Followed by Chicken Rashida -  a thick gravy with  wonderful, minty and curry leaf undertones. On the side,  humongous fresh tandoori roti's cooked in an authentic earthen tandoor oven.  (I continue to hunt for the recipe for Chicken Rashida for decades now, so far in vain)

At last, a special order of Dum Pukth Chicken Biryani. I can burst into song and dance about the flavor and tenderness of the meat but the real art, the real magic - was in the rice. The one thing that sets apart a Great Biryani from a mediocre one is that each rice grain must be tender, infused with flavor and yet stand alone, two never touching!

~Lets get cooking!~

 

I am up with the chickens today - 3.00 AM which means I've had only about 3 hours of sleep! It's all this adrenaline because I'm raring to go.  So lets begin by organizing the ingredients for each step -

• Chicken
  
• Fried Onions
• Gravy
  
• Basmati Rice - Use only Basmati rice
  
• Garnishes

Cook's Note - It is entirely acceptable for the chicken with the gravy & marinade to be cooked & refrigerated the day before to save time.Also, this will allow the chicken gravy to thicken, thus getting rid of excess water further softening the rice.

Chicken -

 

Wash a 4-5 lb young Chicken. Using a pair of sharp kitchen shears proceed and your hands, begin tugging at the skins and  start pulling  it away.

The skin will be difficult to remove from the wings, so I just choose to leave it on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Using  sharp kitchen shears, begin cutting the chicken at its joints - thighs, breasts, wings and back. Then  cut again separating the  drumstick from the thigh, back   into 3-4 pieces, wing from drummette and also cut each breast in 3-4 pieces. Place pieces in a large bowl. Wash hands thoroughly with soap and water.

Gravy & Marinade -

 

 

 

 

Assemble the ingredients -

For the gravy  - ghee, cinnamon bark, whole cardamom, whole dried bay leaves,  onions, garlic, ginger, raw cashew nuts & sour curds or buttermilk. Spices used are turmeric powder, garam masala, red chilly powder, cumin-coriander powder, salt, Thai green chillies may also be used. Herbs used are fresh cilantro and fresh mint.

Cook's note - Traditionally yogurt which is more like sour curds is used but here in the US the yogurt is not sour enough so I find buttermilk is an excellent substitution to yogurt.

Onions - This is a crucial step in the process. To achieve the deep caramelized fried onions required, it is important that the onions are very finely sliced so use a mandolin slicer on its medium setting.

   

Cook's Note - I tried the food processor but since the onion needs to be cut in strips (not semi circles) the food processor does not give you control over that. Also with a knife its very difficult to achieve the thin slices required.

  Slice all the onions required for both the gravy & the garnish altogether.

 

 

Cook's Note - It is important to use a flat frying pan for this step.

Pour oil into the frying pan to about 1/2" depth.  Do not reduce the oil. Once the onions caramelize, they will release the oil which can be drained away. Add more oil if the onions are not deep in oil.

Heat the oil till very hot on medium high heat. To test oil, drop a slice on onion into the oil. It must   simmer  immediately. 

Important - Fry the onions  for approx 35-45 minutes or so until have caramelized a rich brown color - almost a deep brown.  Do not step away from the stove and keep stirring every 3-5 minutes or so.

The onions have a tendency to brown around the edges. If left unattended these will turn black very quickly and will impart a bitter taste to the entire dish.

 

Once all the onion have uniformly browned, drain with a perforated spoon or mesh skimmer and sit on baking tray lined with double layered kitchen paper towels.

Spread out the fried onions so they cool down. As soon as they have cooled you will find they impart a crinkly sound when touched with your fingers.

Separate into 2 equal quantities - use half for the gravy and place the other half in an airtight container and refrigerate till ready to use.

 

Garlic-Ginger paste - In a food processor, place the garlic and ginger. Chop till fine. To this add 1/4 cup water and pulverize to a fine paste.

Cashew paste - In a clean coffee grinder, place the cashews. Grind to a fine mix without adding any liquid.

 

In a heavy bottomed saute pan, large enough for a whole chicken, heat the ghee on medium heat. Add the cinnamon bark, cardamom and bay leaves. Add the garlic and ginger pastes. 

Cook's Note - I am using a deep pot  so I can use the same to go directly into the oven with the rice.

Saute for about 2-3 minutes. Add the cut chicken & salt and increase heat to medium-high. Begin to saute till the chicken has turned from pink to pale white. This should take about 15 minutes.

 

Now add the buttermilk. Saute for another 2 minutes.  . Add the spices - turmeric powder, red chilly powder, garam masala powder and the cumin-coriander powder & the fried onions that have been set aside for the gravy. Saute for about 5 minutes.

 

  Cover  with a tight fitting lid and allow the chicken to cook for  about 20 minutes or until the chicken has cooked but is not falling off the bone.  Add the cashew paste & stir. Simmer for a few minutes.

Evaporate any excess gravy on medium-high heat so there is no more than about 1-1/2 cup of gravy in the pan. 

Cook's Note - Stew the chicken in its juices and add no additional water. The juices from the chicken are enough to cook it.  Reduce the heat to low while cooking but increase heat during evaporation. Also as the gravy thickens with the cashew paste, it will have a tendency to stick to the bottom of the pan. Stay at hand and stir often. 

At this point, STOP if cooking the Biryani the next day. Allow chicken to cool & refrigerate till ready to use. If cooking the same day as I am continue with the recipe.

 Garnishes -

Herbs - Chop the cilantro leaves & mint leaves.

Chillies - Slit the Thai green chillies if using.

 

 

Potatoes - Peel and wash the potatoes.  Halve then quarter. If the potato is large, cut each half lengthwise into 2-3 thick slices. Soak in a bowl of clean water to prevent turning brown till ready to use.

 

  Drain the water from the potatoes. Rub 1/2 tbs salt thoroughly on the potatoes. Pour oil into a non-stick flat frying pan to 1/2" depth. Heat till very hot.

On low-medium heat, cook the potatoes on  till thoroughly cooked. This may take approx 30-40 minutes. Drain with a perforated spoon or mesh skimmer.  

 Cook's Note-  Pierce the blade of a paring knife into the potatoes all the way to the core to check if they are done. If the potatoes remain uncooked, they will have no further opportunity to soften so ensure the potatoes are cooked in this step.

 These next steps should be commenced no more than 1 - 1/2 hours before serving time.

 

Preheat the oven to 400 deg F.

 

Cashews - In a saute pan, heat 1 tsp ghee. Saute the cashews for about 2 minutes till slightly golden and they release a scent. Remove to a bowl. 

Golden raisins - Soak the raisins in a bowl of clean warm water till ready to use.

 

 Basmati Rice - Soak the Basmati rice in a large bowl and completely cover with water. The water should extend a good 2-3 inches above the level of the rice.

 

Saffron - Crush the saffron in a mortar & pestle with 1 tbs milk

Rose water - Measure and set aside.

 

Transfer the chicken into a deep oven safe pot or use a  deep Aluminum roasting pan. I am using a a deep, heavy bottomed pot but since the handles are not oven safe, I'll wrap these in foil and that will do the job.

To the cooked chicken and gravy, add the potatoes and stir thoroughly.

Sprinkle with chopped fresh cilantro leaves and mint leaves.
 

Cooking the Rice - This is one the most critical step in the entire preparation. This is not the time to take that call, walk away from the stove or be distracted in any way.Vigilance, my friends!

 

Heat approx 8 cups of water and add 1 tbs salt , cinnamon bark, cloves & bay leaves. Bring the water  to a ferocious boil.  Add the juice of a lemon - this is a very important step to  help in keeping the rice grains separate.

Add  the soaked Basmati rice and cook for about 5-7 minutes - rice should be half cooked.

 

While the rice is cooking, take a small sieve and start removing sieve fulls of rice, draining  excess water  into the pot & cover the chicken. Do this 3-4 times till the chicken is completely covered with rice.

Drain the rest of the rice immediately & thoroughly in a large sieve.  Do not overcook the rice. I repeat, do not overcook the rice!

Cook's Note -  The reason for doing the rice in this 2 step method is because during the 'choking off the steam' process in the oven (Dum Pukth) the rice in contact with the chicken will cook & soften further compared to the rice towards the top of the pot therefore the rice on the top is cooked a few minutes longer compared to the rice deeper into the pot.

Assembly -

Traditionally the meat & rice were arranged in alternating layers. I don't do this because in older times or in very large families or gatherings,  huge quantities of Biryani are cooked at a time in pots 18" deep & over 2 ft in diameter. Hence the layering was required to break the the depth of the meat & rice layers.

However in today's home kitchen we rarely ever cook for more than 4-6 people at a time so in order to get a deep enough layer of rice, I simply place all the chicken at the bottom & top with rice. I do however layer the garnishes into the rice as I am placing it into the pot or pan.

Orange Colored rice - Take 1/4 tsp orange food coloring and place it in a bowl with 2 tbs water. Add 2 tbs cooked rice. Stir. Set aside. 

Assembly -

Over the rice that has already been placed over the chicken, 

 

- Sprinkle 1/2 of the raisins and the cashew nuts over the rice

-  Spread the remaining drained rice evenly over the chicken. Sprinkle the remaining raisins, cashew nuts & fried onions over the rice

- Spread the colored orange rice only (discard any food coloring in bowl)  over the rice.  Sprinkle the saffron overall the rice & also drizzle the rose water all over.

Pour melted ghee all over. Biryani rice must be a little greasy once cooked.

 Moisten a towel under a tap till moist but not dripping wet. Place over the pot or pan. Cover with tight fitting lid.

Place the pot in the pre-heated oven & bake for approx 15-20 minutes to complete to Dum Pukth process. Gently fluff very lightly with a spoon or fork.  Cover with the lid & set aside for 30 minutes.

 

Remove from oven and take off the lid. Serve immediately by digging the large metal spoon all the way to the bottom the same way you would cut into a Lasagna. Do not stir.

  You can remove to a serving platter if you wish but you mush do so carefully so not to break the rice grains. Serve immediately with prepared sides.

 

TO THE TABLE, TO THE TABLE

 
We are all impatient to dig in. All this food photography has everybody drooling & bellies are growling!

Since we were unable to procure Indian wine, we've decided to go with a New Zealand, Grove Hill, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, Wine Spectator -  90 points.

THE PARADE OF THE DISHES

So here is our marvelous Dum Pukth Chicken Biryani, in its starring role, plated and stunning!

 

 
In its supporting role, the equally delectable platter of Shami Kababs, which are beef and split chick pea kababs cooked with whole spices, finely ground and pan fried, dipped in egg

Also featured is the  Kachumbar, a  wonderful, light and refreshing salad prepared with sliced red onions, ripe tomatoes, lime juice, cilantro leaves & red chilly powder .

   

BITES, REVIEWS & GREAT CONVERSATION

 
Cheers!

 Dinner's in full swing! Jodi had us all in stitches when she said took her first bite into the Biryani & said, " Uncle Ben doesn't do this"!

Mr. Hubby at the head of the table is too engrossed in his plate to look at the wife who is currently sticking her tongue out at him!

A great one from Terry, "What a perfect blend of heat & spice"...and the textures! Everyone was raving about the kabab's ....delicious, delicious all the way around.

And so the meal progresses, everyone is too busy chowing down to talk! And finally - empty plates & engrossing conversation.

 

IT'S TIME FOR AFTER DINNER, FINGER BOWLS

What are finger bowls?

This is wonderful custom that I really miss. Because so many foods require the use of fingers, bowl of hot water with lemon slices and rose petals are presented after the meal to rinse the tips of your fingers! Isn't that cool?

We actually once had a guest who proceeded to drink up the water instead of using it for washing!

BELLY'S FULL! IT'S TIME SLOUCH & EXPAND!

In anticipation of Asli Chai!

Asli Chai, real Chai as prepared in India for centuries, stewed with cardamom and fresh ginger root. Rich & a depth of flavor in every sip!

Last but not least, our Vermicelli dessert, Sevian stewed  in sweetened milk with sliced almonds, golden raisins and pistachios. Sweet heaven in a bowl!

I have to get me some of that!

So there you have it! What an evening, what a meal! To say that this evening was a hit would be an understatement!

Nonetheless, there was a lot of groaning about how stuffed we all were and couldn't move etc etc. Thankfully, Mr. Hubby still did the dishes! Considering that I have been going since 3.00 AM I'm pooped but nothing  some more of that  chai won't fix!

As the evening winds down, more lounging & relaxing with good friends. More dessert, more chai & even more delightful company!

Don't you wish you were here?

Likewise!

 ~

 Recipe for

 

DUM PUKTH CHICKEN BIRYANI

Serves 4-6 (Do not halve this recipe. Needs to be made in large quantities for adequate layer depths)

Shopping list 

Chicken & Gravy- 

1#4-5 lb whole Chicken 

6 tbs 'ghee' 

1" piece ginger

6 garlic cloves

2 large yellow onions

1/2 cup raw cashew nuts

1" cinnamon bark

4 whole cardamoms

3 dried bay leaves

1 lb potatoes

1-1/2 tsp salt

1 buttermilk or sour curds

1 1/2 tsp garam masala

1 tsp red chilly powder

3/4 tbs salt

3/4 tsp turmeric powder

1-1/2 tsp cumin-coriander powder

1/2 cup each - fresh cilantro and mint leaves

2 Thai green chillies

Approx 1 cup oil for deep frying

Garnish-

1 large yellow onion

1/4 cup roasted cashew nuts, unsalted

1/4 cup raisins soaked in clean water

 Rice-

3 cups uncooked Basmati rice

3/4 tbs salt

1" cinnamon bark

5 cloves

1/2 tsp whole black pepper corns

5 whole cardamom pods

1 lemon

1/4 tsp orange food coloring mixed with 2 tbs water

1/8 tsp saffron strands crushed and mixed with 1 tbs milk

1 tbs rose water

1/4 cup melted 'ghee'

   

  Preparations for Chicken & Gravy -

Chicken - Wash, skin and joint chicken. Set aside.

Onions - This is a crucial step in the process. To achieve the deep caramelized fried onions, it is important that the onions are very finely sliced so use a mandolin slicer only .  

 

 

 

Cook's Note - It is important to use a flat frying pan for this step.

Pour oil into the frying pan to about 1/2" depth.  Do not reduce the oil. Once the onions caramelize, they will release the oil which can be drained away.

Heat the oil till very hot on medium high heat. To test oil, drop a slice on onion into the oil. It must   simmer  immediately. 

Important - Fry the onions  for approx 35-45 minutes or so until have caramelized a rich brown color - almost a deep brown.  Do not step away from the stove and keep stirring every 3-5 minutes or so. The onions have a tendency to brown around the edges. If left unattended these will turn black very quickly and will impart a bitter taste to the entire dish.

Once all the onion have uniformly browned, drain with a perforated spoon or mesh skimmer and sit on baking tray lined with double layered kitchen paper towels.

Spread out the fried onions so they cool down. As soon as they have cooled you will find they impart a crinkly sound when touched with your fingers.

Separate into 2 equal quantities - use half for the gravy and place the other half in an airtight container and refrigerate till ready to use.

Garlic-Ginger paste - In a food processor, place the garlic and ginger. Chop till fine. To this add 1/4 cup water and pulverize to a fine paste.

Cashew paste - In a clean coffee grinder, place the cashews. Grind to a fine mix without adding any liquid.

Preparation on the day of assembling the Biryani -

Herbs - Chop the cilantro leaves & mint leaves.

Chillies - Slit the Thai green chillies if using. 

Potatoes - Peel and wash the potatoes. Halve & slice each half into 3 lengths. Soak in a bowl of clean water till ready to use.

Cashew nuts -  In a saute pan, heat 1 tsp ghee. Saute the cashews for about 2 minutes till slightly golden and they release a scent. Remove to a bowl. 

Raisins - Soak in a bowl of water till completely covered.

 

 

Cooking method -

In a heavy bottomed saute pan, large enough for a whole chicken, heat the ghee on medium heat. Add the cinnamon bark, cardamom and bay leaves. Add the garlic and ginger pastes. 

Saute for about 2-3 minutes. Add the cut chicken & salt and increase heat to medium-high. Begin to saute till the chicken has turned from pink to pale white. This should take about 15 minutes.

Now add the buttermilk. Saute for another 2 minutes.   Add the spices - turmeric powder, red chilly powder, garam masala powder and the cumin-coriander powder & the fried onions that have been set aside for the gravy. Saute for about 5 minutes.

  Cover  with a tight fitting lid and allow the chicken to cook for  about 20-25 minutes or until the chicken has cooked but is not falling off the bone.  Add the cashew paste & stir. Simmer for a few minutes.

Evaporate any excess gravy on medium-high heat so there is no more than about 1-1/2 cup of gravy in the pan. 

Cook's Note - Stew the chicken in its juices and add no additional water. The juices from the chicken are enough to cook it.  Reduce the heat to low while cooking but increase heat during evaporation. Also as the gravy thickens with the cashew paste, it will have a tendency to stick to the bottom of the pan. Stay at hand and stir often.

At this point, STOP if cooking the Biryani the next day. Allow chicken to cool & refrigerate till ready to use. If cooking the same day continue with the recipe.

For the potatoes - Drain the water from the potatoes. Rub 1/2 tbs salt thoroughly on the potatoes. In the same oil cook the potatoes on low-medium heat till thoroughly cooked (approx 20-25 minutes) Set aside.

Remove the chicken from the refrigerator if needed to bring to room temperature.

These next steps should be commenced no more than 1 1/2 hours before serving time.

Preheat the oven to 400 deg F.

Transfer the chicken into a deep oven safe pot or use a  deep Aluminum roasting pan. I am using a a deep, heavy bottomed pot but since the handles are not oven safe, I'll wrap these in foil and that will do the job.

To the cooked chicken and gravy, add the potatoes and stir thoroughly. Sprinkle with chopped fresh cilantro leaves and mint leaves.

 

Rice - Soak the rice in plenty of water for 30 minutes. Drain away all the water thoroughly in a sieve.

 Heat approx 8 cups of water and  salt, cloves, peppercorns & cinnamon  to a ferocious boil. 

Add 3/4 tbs salt , cinnamon bark, cloves & whole cardamom pods. Bring the water  to a ferocious boil.  Add the juice a lemon - this is a very important step to  help in keeping the rice grains separate.

Add  the soaked Basmati rice and cook for about 5-7 minutes - rice should be half cooked. While the rice is cooking, take a small sieve and start removing sieve fulls of rice, draining  excess water  into the pot & cover the chicken with the rice. Do this 3-4 times till the chicken is completely covered with rice.

Drain the rest of the rice immediately in a large sieve.  Do not overcook the rice. I repeat, do not overcook the rice!

Cook's Note -  The reason for doing the rice in this 2 step method is because during the 'choking off the steam' process in the oven (Dum Pukth) the rice in contact with the chicken will cook & soften further compared to the rice towards the top of the pot therefore the rice on the top is cooked a few minutes longer compared to the rice deeper into the pot.

Colored rice - Take 1/4 tsp orange food coloring and place it in a bowl with 2 tbs water. Add 2 tbs cooked rice. Stir. Set aside. 

Saffron - Crush the saffron in a mortar & pestle with 1 tbs milk

Rose water - Measure and set aside.

Assembly -

Over the rice that has already been placed over the chicken,

- Sprinkle 1/2 of the raisins and the cashew nuts over the rice

-  Spread the remaining drained rice evenly over the chicken. Sprinkle the remaining raisins, cashew nuts & fried onions over the rice

- Spread the colored orange rice only (discard any food coloring in bowl)  over the rice.  Sprinkle the saffron overall the rice & also drizzle the rose water all over.

- Pour melted ghee all over. Biryani rice must be a little greasy once cooked.

 Moisten a towel under a tap till moist but not dripping wet. Place over the pot or pan. Cover with tight fitting lid.

Place in the pre-heated oven & bake for approx 15-20 minutes.

Gently fluff very lightly with a spoon or fork.  Cover with the lid & set aside for 30 minutes.

 

Remove from oven and take off the lid. Serve immediately by spooning all the way to the bottom the same way you would cut into a Lasagna. Do not stir.

  You can remove to a serving platter if you wish but you mush do so carefully so not to break the rice grains. Serve immediately with prepared sides.

Enjoy!