Weave a Thousand Flavors

The first steps....

 
Every story has to begin somewhere and so it is that mine began on the streets of Mumbai, India. However, unlike a rolling stone I have gathered plenty of moss. 

My story, though begins in one place, has evolved through time and geography so I can no longer be identified by just my beginnings but rather by every place that has touched me, moved me and changed me through the years.  

For me, those places have included beautiful Sydney, the kampongs of Jakarta, sweaty  summers of  Singapore and the rolling hills of Virginia, USA.

Through it all, food punctuates my life! I am forever on a quest to find the best eats wherever I am - a fine dining restaurant, a hole-in-the-wall place or roadside eateries - always returning to my own home kitchen.

 I took my first steps  in the kitchen at age 9.  The first dish I ever prepared was a vegetable pilaf with very caramelized onions (a gentler term for burnt). 

For years to come, my parents stoically bore the onslaught of all my trials and tribulations with food. Thanks to their very honest criticism and encouragement to  experiment with diverse cuisines, my palette matured & I developed an understanding of authentic cuisines from around the world. 

Matt Kramer in the March 2009 publication of Wine Spectator, sums it up best - "This is why the business of 'authentic'  is so important. It sets a benchmark; it establishes a common cultural vocabulary of 'good'. And it defines local culture. Mind you, 'authentic' is not fossilization. Instead, it is a bedrock commitment to deliver the 'true' goodness that created the reputation of the product to begin with". 

Though I have never formally attended culinary school ( I received my degrees in Architecture & Urban Design), it's what I strive for everyday. In the art of cooking, I  am self-taught and home schooled.

Somewhere back in 1994, I was inspired to write a book on the dying art of authentic Jain and Gujarati cooking – Gujarat Nu Jaman , food from Gujarat, India where the majority of the population has been vegetarian for over 3000 years.

When Gujarat Nu Jaman was first published in India in 1996 & republished in 2002 (in hardcover), I naturally dedicated it to the one person who was the source of inspiration and most of the recipes - my grandmother. I am very glad I did this because in the Gujarat earthquake of 2001 so much was lost - knowledge & life.

Everyday I learn more - from culinary masters like Batali, Kalra & Grausman, to the often silent and unknown masters who grace street corners, remote villages & everyday home kitchens. Of this I am certain, knowledge, talent and expertise can be found from grandiose to the humblest  of surroundings.

So here I am many decades later - with an architectural education, love, marriage, career & kids, that I recognize the need to write about the one thing that has been with me through it all - a great passion for great food and an eternal search for tribe.

 Please join me as I write, muse and cook with abandon. Needless to say, I welcome your thoughts and comments.

With much love,

Devaki

Plate some New Year's luck - Black-eyed peas, succulent beets & edamame salad with rye croutons

No self respecting food blogger in the US, especially one who launches their  food blog on New Year's day, will present their very first recipe sans black-eyed peas.  Having lived in Virginia for so long, I have undoubtedly inherited some traits of a Dixie chick. One predominantly being the tradition of eating black-eyed peas (cow peas) on New Year's day to ensure both luck & money.

In the Southern US, black-eyed peas are prepared as a dish called Hoppin' John (with bacon or salt pork) & are eaten with stewed tomatoes.

One of the stories I've heard claims that during the Civil War, the town of Vicksburg, VA ran out of food while under attack. The residents fortunately discovered a stockpile of black-eyed peas and since then this legume was considered lucky.

Others claim a different theory - that the beans bring luck because they are round or ring-shaped, signifying that the old year has been completed and a fresh one is about to begin.

Am I going to bet the farm on either one of these stories? No, but I am still going to cook black-eyed peas. Why tempt fate?

Especially since we can all do with more luck & money this year  - ( and a certain someone hopes to join the echelons of awesome food bloggers everywhere !...smiles...)

I intend to render the black-eyed peas a little differently  from its southern cousin -  as a warm salad, on a bed of wilted beet greens with  green beans, succulent beets and edamame tossed in a balsamic vinegar & lemon juice dressing; and the piece de resistance - homemade rye croutons.

   

It is preferable to soak the black-eyed peas the night before but if you have forgotten to do so, soaking for an hour in hot water with 1/2 tsp baking soda will also do the job. Once the peas are soaked they will swell with water.

The success of this dish depends largely on the freshness & quality of its ingredients. 

So yesterday on a visit to the farmer's market, I picked up some marvelous fresh organic beets, baby portabella mushrooms & fresh green beans & frozen shelled edamame beans.

Since most of the ingredients require steaming to retain their freshness, I recommend using microwavable steam bags. They are very convenient to use & also the vegetables retain more of their nutrients than when they are boiled.

If you have an issue with using steam bags, you can cook your vegetables conventionally on a stove top or in a microwave safe bowl with a lid.

Before beginning preparations on any of the fresh ingredients, it is best to begin with cooking the black-eyed peas. Bring 4 cups of water to boil in a pot on medium-high heat. Add 1/2 tsp salt & the  soaked black-eyed peas. Boil for 30 minutes till peas are tender-crisp. Sieve & discard water. Set aside to cool. 

   

Green beans - Cut the ends of the green beans and string. With fingers break into 2 inch lengths. Cook in a steam bag for 3 minutes with 1/4 tsp salt or drop in boiling water for 4-5 minutes until tender crisp.

As soon as the green beans are cooked, dump them into cold water to stop the cooking process or they will continue to cook to an unflattering olive green.  Set aside.

Edamame - Measure out the frozen edamame beans to a steam bag & steam for 4 minutes or drop in boiling water for 4-5 minutes until tender crisp. Drop into a bowl with cold water. Set aside.

   

Mushrooms- Wipe the mushrooms with a damp cloth. Cut off the stems and discard. Thinly slice  & set aside in a bowl.

In a saute pan, add olive oil & heat on medium high heat. Once the oil is fuming, add the butter. As soon as it melts, add the mushrooms & saute for 2-3 minutes or until the mushrooms have browned but not completely wilted. Remove immediately to a bowl & set aside.

  

Beets -  Cut the leaves off 2" above the bulbs and reserve. Wash each of the leaves & scrub the beets thoroughly to get rid of dirt.

Without cutting or peeling at this point (to prevent color loss) , steam the beets in a steam bag for 9 minutes or drop in boiling water for approx 10 minutes until tender. Pierce with a knife to test doneness (is that a word? ... but you get the drift)

Once they are cooked, peel & halve. (The beets should not too large approx 1-2" - if they are larger in size, halve & then quarter)

Garlic - Peel & crush 4 cloves of garlic. Set aside.

    

Croutons - Preheat the oven to 425 deg F.

The bread table at the farmer's market had a fantastic & mouthwatering array of  fresh breads & they had a fine looking New York rye bread. Using a serrated bread knife, cut 3-4 1/2" thick slices. Cut in 1/2" x 1" lengths.

In a microwave safe dish, melt the butter. Pour all over the cut bread & toss.

     

Spread a piece of aluminum foil on a baking tray. In a single layer, spread the butter soaked bread pieces and place in the oven.

Bake for approx 10 minutes. Toss & return to the oven for another 3 minutes. The croutons should be a beautiful crisp golden brown. Remove in a bowl & set aside to cool.

 

Beet greens -  Cut the stems off from leaves & discard. Heat olive oil in the saute pan on medium heat. Add the butter & as soon as it melts, add the crushed  garlic cloves. Saute for a few seconds till golden brown. Add the beet greens & saute for approx 2 minutes. Cover with a lid & cook for 2-3 minutes until the the greens wilt. Remove from the heat & set aside without a lid.

Dressing - In a glass jar, add 2 cloves crushed garlic, balsamic vinegar, extra virgin olive oil & freshly squeezed lemon juice.

Tightly close the jar & shake vigorously for 30 seconds. Set aside till ready to use.

Assembly - Line a large mixing bowl with kitchen paper towels. Drain the green beans & place in the bowl. Using a kitchen paper towel, pat dry the beans to remove as much moisture as possible.

Add the edamame  & repeat the process with the paper towel. Once the green beans & edamame are dry, remove the paper towels & discard.

Add the sauteed mushrooms, cooked beets & black-eyed peas. Add the dressing & toss gently.

To serve, line salad plates or a large salad bowl with wilted beet greens. Mound the salad over the green & scatter croutons on top.

Cook's Note - You may choose to add the croutons before adding the dressing & toss altogether but I really can't stand dressing soaked croutons so I just serve them on top.

Whatever the tempo of your day has been, you'll find a bite into this refreshing salad to be a warm, welcoming & delicious experience.

A subtle blend of clean flavors, the zesty tang of the dressing pairs well with the firm, resilient textures of the black-eyed peas & edamame  as well as the soft,  earthy flesh of the beets - all in all a canvas of great harmony!

Recipe for

BLACK-EYED PEAS, SUCCULENT BEETS & EDAMAME SALAD WITH RYE CROUTON

Serves 4-6

Preparation time - 40 minutes

Assembly time - 5 minutes

Shopping list -

2/3 cup uncooked black-eyed peas

2 cups frozen edamame beans

1/2 lb baby portabella mushrooms

1/2 lb fresh green beans

4 organic small beets with greens

4 cups water

3/4  tsp salt

2 tsp olive oil

3 tsp butter

2 cloves garlic

For dressing -

2 tbs balsamic vinegar

1 tbs freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 crushed garlic cloves

1/8 cup extra virgin olive oil

Preparation

Black- eyed peas - Soak overnight or for a minimum of 1 hour in plenty of hot water with 1/2 tsp baking soda.

Green beans - Cut the ends of the green beans and string. With fingers break into 2 inch lengths.

Mushrooms- Wipe the mushrooms with a damp cloth. Cut off the stems and discard. Thinly slice  & set aside in a bowl. 

Beets -  Cut the leaves 2" above the bulbs and reserve. Wash  & scrub the beets thoroughly to get rid of dirt. 

Beet greens -  Cut the stems off from leaves & discard. Wash each of the leaves separately to get rid of all the dirt.

Garlic - Peel & crush 4 cloves of garlic. Set aside.

Dressing - In a glass jar, add 2 crushed garlic cloves, balsamic vinegar, extra virgin olive oil & freshly squeezed lemon juice.

Tightly close the jar & shake vigorously for 30 seconds. Set aside till ready to use.

Cooking method -

Preheat the oven to 425 deg F.

Black- eyed peas -  Bring 4 cups of water to boil in a pot on medium-high heat. Add 1/2 tsp salt & the  soaked black-eyed peas. Boil for 30 minutes till peas are tender-crisp. Sieve & discard water. Set aside to cool.

Green beans - Cook in a steam bag for 3 minutes with 1/4 tsp salt or drop in boiling water for 4-5 minutes until tender crisp. Dump them into cold water.  Set aside.

Edamame - Measure out the frozen edamame beans to a steam bag & steam for 4 minutes or drop in boiling water  for 4-5 minutes until tender crisp. Drop into a bowl with cold water. Set aside.

Mushrooms-  In a saute pan, add 1 tsp olive oil & heat on medium high heat. Once the oil is fuming, add 1 tsp butter. As soon as it melts, add the mushrooms & saute for 2-3 minutes or until the mushrooms have browned but not completely wilted. Remove immediately to a bowl & set aside.

Beets - Without cutting or peeling at this point, steam the beets in a steam bag for 9 minutes or drop in boiling water for approx 10 minutes or until tender. 

Croutons - Using a serrated bread knife, cut 3-4 1/2" thick slices. Cut in 1/2" x 1" lengths. In a microwave safe dish, melt the butter. Pour all over the cut bread & toss.

Spread a piece of aluminum foil on a baking tray. In a single layer, spread the butter soaked bread pieces and place in the oven. Bake for approx 10 minutes. Toss & return to the oven for another 3 minutes. The croutons should be a beautiful crisp golden brown. Remove to a bowl & set aside to cool.

Beet greens -   Heat 1 tsp olive oil in the saute pan on medium heat. Add 2 tsp butter & as soon as it melts, add the crushed  garlic cloves. Saute for a few seconds till golden brown. Add the beet greens & saute for approx 2 minutes. Cover with a lid & cook for 2-3 minutes until the the greens wilt. Remove from heat & set aside without lid.

Assembly -

Line a large mixing bowl with kitchen paper towels. Drain the green beans & place in the bowl. Using a kitchen paper towel pat dry the beans to remove as much moisture as possible.

Add the edamame  & repeat the process with the paper towel. Once the green beans & edamame are dry, remove the paper towels & discard.

Add the sauteed mushrooms, cooked beets & black-eyed peas. Add the dressing & toss gently.

To serve, line salad plates or a large salad bowl with wilted beet greens. Mound the salad over the green & scatter croutons over.

Taste & adjust seasonings.

Enjoy!

Revoke some Holiday Spirit - Cherry Raisin cake

The months after the holidays, after a plethora of cookies and gingerbread and the celebrations of the New Year, I can't help feeling the need to revoke some of the festive spirit. Have you noticed how the cold also brings about a stillness in the air? It's as though the air is pregnant with possibilities.

I love winters for this reason and also because I simply love crisp cold days more than hot, sweaty,  days  - and it makes me want to cook hearty stews and bake warm breads and roast meats. It also reminds of  our early years when we had just arrived in the US. Every holiday season, our dear friend Michael's mother, who lives in Australia would mail us a traditional boiled Christmas pudding (with instructions for the flambe and brandy butter)

One of these holidays, I am determined to make us a traditional pudding (suet and all) but for now,  I'll make do with a similar albeit simpler, delicious cherry raisin cake.

My first experience making this cake, resulted in what I'd  like to simply call - 'the incident'. An unforgettable one nevertheless, since my forgetting to use parchment paper during the baking process resulted in a beautiful brown,  perfect cake, tearing apart as I tried to nudge it out of the loaf pan. Not pretty - and pretty much heartbreaking!

Any how, now that I have recovered, I simply must share this lovely recipe with you. I have sent a loaf of this delightful creation to my good friend Shearer and she assures that me that it was a roaring success not just with the grown-ups but also the kids. As far as I'm concerned if the kids love it, its got to be good stuff!

This recipe is adapted from the original as published in the Australian Women's Weekly Cookbook.

A note about the ingredients, first of all I had quite a run around getting the right kind of cherries.

The cherries we need are not the canned, fresh or frozen variety nor are they the maraschino cherries but rather the red glazed ones - the ones I finally found them in a 4 oz container simply labeled red cherries though I know them as glazed cherries (not cheap at $4.50 for 4 oz).

Secondly the raisins should be sultanas or 'golden raisins ' and not the 'Thompson' raisins.  

 

Most importantly, set aside 3 hours for the preparation and baking of this cake and bake 3-4 days before serving for flavors to mature beautifully.

Preheat the oven to 300 deg F

 

 
 

 

Place softened butter in a bowl & add the powdered sugar.

 

Cream with a hand held electric blender till light and fluffy (I am sure you can also use your esteemed kitchen aid  mixer  if you've got it!)

I used my handy Braun handled that's been with me forever and I love it!

 

 

 

Onto the next step -

 

Add beaten eggs and blend well. Freshly squeeze the oranges (my 7 year old son was so excited to do this for me :) and add the juice to the egg mixture.

 

Once the orange juice is added and blended together with the electric hand blender, it looks as though the butter and juice is congealed. No worries!

Put the flour into a separate large mixing bowl and add baking powder to it. Stir with clean hands or rubber spatula. Take away 2.5 oz of the flour into a small bowl and set aside.

 

Halve the cherries. Mix together the glazed cherries and the golden raisins in a bowl. Add the 2.5 oz reserved flour and mix together till all the cherries and raisins are thoroughly coated with the flour.

Cook's Note - Isn't it the darnedest thing, that coating with flour prevents them from settling to the bottom when added to the batter!

 

Add the egg mixture to the flour. With a rubber spatula, fold the flour and egg mixture together, scraping the sides of the bowl and turning  the batter over and over till completely blended.

 

Add the cherries and raisins and mix with the rubber spatula till completely blended. Line a 9 x 5 loaf pan with parchment paper. Important!

To line the pan, I cut 2 large rectangles of parchment paper - one the width of the length & the other the width of the other side. Place both the rectangles into the pan & they will overlap with the excess paper hanging off the sides. This is fine because it allows easy removal of the cake (use like handles)

Cook's Note -  I learned the hard way that non-stick cooking spray simply doesn't stand a chance when baking for 2  hours. So the parchment paper is a must.

 

  

Bake for 2 hours until it reaches a beautiful golden brown color. Pierce with a thin skewer and it if comes out clean then the cake is done. Remove from the pan and allow to cool completely on a baking rack.

Wrap in foil and set aside for 3-4 days for the favors to mature and it is ready to serve.

I sprinkled some powdered sugar when I served the cake - the favors of the butter, orange juice and dry fruits complement each other beautifully.

I realized that though many recipes call for  soaking the dry fruits in brandy (and can be substituted for the orange juice) I didn't miss it at all and actually preferred this lighter version. Also, I didn't have to worry about the kids turning their noses up!

 

 

 

Recipe for

CHERRY RAISIN CAKE

 Serves 6

Shopping list

1/2 lb all-purpose flour

1/2 lb butter

1/2 lb powdered sugar

1 tsp baking powder

2 eggs

4 oz freshly squeezed orange juice

3/4 lb golden raisins

1/2 lb glazed cherries

 

Preparation - 

Butter and sugar mixture - In a large bowl cream the  softened butter and sugar till light and fluffy.

 

Eggs - Break into a bowl and lightly beat

Oranges - Squeeze fresh oranges and reserve juice

Flour - In a large bowl place together the all purpose flour and baking powder. Reserve 2.5 oz flour separately.

Cherries and raisins - Halve the cherries.  Toss in the 2.5 oz reserved flour till thoroughly coated.

 

 

 

    

  

Cooking method-

Preheat the oven to 300 deg F .

Cut pieces of parchment paper & line a 9 x 5 loaf pan. To line the pan, I cut 2 large rectangles - one the width of the length & the other the width of the other side. Place both the rectangles into the pan & they will overlap with the excess paper hanging off the sides. This is fine because it allows easy removal of the cake (use like handles)

To the creamed butter and sugar, add beaten eggs and blend. Add the orange juice and blend till well mixed. To the flour, add this egg mixture. With a rubber spatula, fold the flour and egg mixture together, scraping the sides of the bowl and turning  the batter over and over till completely blended.

 

Add the flour coated cherries and raisins and mix with the rubber spatula till completely mixed.

 

 

 

Bake for 2 hours in the preheated oven till the cake is a beautiful golden brown. Pierce with a thin skewer and it if comes out clean then it is ready. Remove from the pan and allow to cool completely on a baking rack.

Wrap in foil and set aside for 3-4 days for the favors to mature and it is ready to serve. Cut into slices to serve.

Enjoy!